Today, as then, the Port remains the true heart of Echuca. The River traffic still bustles but this time their cargo is pleasure seekers. The Port area is serviced by Murray Esplanade, a pedestrian walk flanked by fine 19th Century buildings. These have been faithfully restored so visitors can experience the sights sounds and smells of this "step back in time" community.
ECHUCA, a lively and progressive place, is the most easily accessible river town from Melbourne – it’s only three hours or so by bus or car, making it a popular weekend getaway. Echuca became the largest inland port in Australia after the railway line connected it with Melbourne in 1864.
When the missions began to close in the 1930s, many Aboriginal families, especially Yorta Yorta people from Cummeragunga mission, and Wemba Wemba from Moonacullah mission, migrated to the Echuca area. Since they weren’t made welcome in the towns, the migrants were forced to live on the fringes in badly constructed, flood-prone housing, just close enough to be able to get to work and school. Women commonly worked in the canneries and hospitals, and the men packed fruit, sheared sheep and did other labouring jobs.
Nowadays, Port of Echuca, with its massive wharves and collection of old buildings, is a major tourist attraction, and several cruises ply along the river from here. The town itself, however, is not too touristy, and has retained much of its charm. There are two principal streets: High Street, the former main street, leads to Murray Esplanade and the wharf, and is the centre of tourist activity, with lots of cafés and boutiquey shops; Hare Street, the present-day main street, is lined with more commercial buildings.
Port of Echuca
The magnificent red-gum wharf was nearly a mile long in its prime and is still fairly extensive. Three landing platforms at different levels allowed unloading, even during times of flooding, and there are wonderful views from the top, high over a bend in the river. Goods were transferred from train to steamer via this top level, and old train carriages sit on sidings here, piled high with trunks of red gum. You can wander below to the other levels, through a network of thick river-red-gum piles standing 12m high. At the lowest level, several old boats are moored, including the Pevensey, a 1911 steam-driven cargo boat which you can wander aboard – it offers one-hour cruises on the last Sunday of every month (tel 03/5482 4248). In the wharf cargo shed there’s a scale model of the working port and a ten-minute narrated audiovisual presentation.
Back outside the wharf complex, along Murray Esplanade opposite Hopwood Gardens, is the Bridge Hotel, opened in 1858 but delicensed in 1916. It was built by the founder of Echuca, Henry Hopwood, an ex-convict who also started a punt service across the Murray; the story goes that if the pub wasn’t doing well he’d close the ferry down for a few hours, leaving prospective passengers with little else to do but drink. Other attractions in the old port area include the Red Gum Works (daily 9am–5pm), housed in a large loading shed which is wonderfully scented by the wood as it’s transformed from tree-trunk to souvenir; there’s also a steam-operated sawmill and a blacksmith at work. Echuca Wharf Pottery (daily 9.30am–6pm) also has demonstrations daily. The World in Wax Museum, 630 High St (daily 9am–5pm; $7), displays sixty wax figures of “world-renowned personalities”, with Australia rather unimaginatively represented by Paul Hogan and Dame Nellie Melba.
Kyabram Fauna Park
River Cruises
Practicalities
The Steam Packet Inn, on the corner of Leslie Street and Murray Esplanade, is a National Trust-listed motel in the heart of the old port area. The Echuca Hotel, 571 High St, the town’s first pub, still has some of its original features and offers simple accommodation in large pleasant rooms as well as motel units and self-contained accommodation at the Campaspe Lodge associated with the hotel. Upmarket B&B accommodation can be found in several pretty, historic homes: one of the nicest is The River Gallery Inn, 578 High St, where all the self-contained rooms have open fireplaces, and some have spas.
The Echuca Caravan Park, Crofton St, Victoria Park, is a well-equipped caravan park right on the riverfront. There is even a nudist resort near Echuca: River Valley Nudist Resort, in a bushland setting along the Goulburn River. Enquire at the tourist office about the many houseboats available to rent in the area.
With hungry Melburnians to feed, there’s no shortage of decent eating places. Sutton’s on Hare Street is an old-fashioned bakery with a shaded bench outside where you can eat your fill. Top of the Town on the High Street near the swimming pool does good-quality, freshly cooked fish and chips. Drovers Bakehouse on 513 High St near the Campaspe River sells a variety of breads baked in a wood-fired oven and has a sun-deck which is a good spot for breakfast or lunch. Rosco’s at the Bridge has a coffee shop, bar and a restaurant in the historic Port area, and serves good coffee, cakes and desserts, light lunches and mainly traditional Aussie dishes in the restaurant. For excellent Italian food go to Giorgio’s on the Port, 527 High St, which is open daily for dinner; or try Fiori, 554 High St. Oscar W’s boasts a wonderful setting next to the old Echuca Wharf and serves food to match (daily 10am until late; book for dinner at tel 03/5482 5133). Ogilvie’s Bar & Restaurant at the Philadelphia Motor Inn, 30 Ogilvie Ave (tel 03/5482 5700) also has a very good reputation. On the other end of the price scale, the American Hotel, on the corner of Hare and Heygarth streets, does good, plain counter meals.
Nightlife is better than you might expect; the small and friendly American Hotel is a good place to start with a drink. The Royal Hotel, 183 Hare St, draws a youngish crowd and plays host to live bands at weekends. The Paramount Movies on Hare Street has films on Friday and Saturday nights; check the local paper for details. If you’re around in early November, check out the Rich River Festival, ten days of balls, street parades, pageants and markets; in mid-February there’s a Jazz, Food and Wine Weekend.