Victoria (Western Region)

Barmah
BARMAH, some 30km upstream on the Murray, is most easily reached by crossing into NSW at Echuca and heading north on the Cobb Highway, then turning east. This small river town is associated with red-gum milling, and with sleeper cutting in the early railway days. The Barmah Caravan Park (tel 03/5869 3225; up to $45) has a great site on the banks of the river among red gums, with a small, sandy beach for swimming. 
Barmah State Park, 10km out of town, has Australia’s largest stands of river red gum, some of them 40m tall and five hundred years old. The forest runs along the Murray for over 100km and stands in an extensive flood plain: canoeing among the trees at flood time (July–Nov) is a magical experience; you can arrange transport and rent canoes from Echuca Boat and Canoe Hire (tel 03/5480 6208). During the wet season more than two hundred species of waterbird come here, and there’s plenty of other wildlife; you might even see brumbies (wild horses). When it’s dry you can use several well-established walking tracks: the place was of special significance to the Yorta Yorta Aborigines and you can still see fish traps, middens and scars on trees where the bark was used for canoes. During the Barmah Cattle Muster every April, two thousand head of cattle that are grazed in the forest are mustered in a frenzied, exciting atmosphere.

Yorta Yorta culture and lore are explained in the park’s Dharnya Centre (daily 10.30am–4pm; $2), which also has archeological information and artefacts. A cruise in the MV Kingfisher leaves from here (Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sun, plus other days during busy times; 2hr; $17; reservations essential, book on tel 03/5869 3399) – a flat-bottomed boat that glides over Barmah Lake and through stands of red gum.