Victoria (Western Region)

Ballarat
Born out of the frantic days of the goldrush, Victoria's largest inland city has matured into a gracious collection of elegant public buildings, fine parks and landscaped gardens. Ballarat is situated just 110 kilometres west of Melbourne - a short hour's drive.

From its initial gold find in 1851, the area produced 27 per cent of Victoria's gold by the turn of the century. The initial fields to be exploited were the alluvial fields of Ballarat East. In the years following, the rich leads buried under the Sebastapol Plateau were to produce enormous yields. The resulting need for heavy machinery meant a growth in local industries such as Cowley's Eureka Iron Works and mining suppliers like The Phoenix. These manufacturing concerns created a permanence for Ballarat.

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Ballarat is also known as 'the city of statues'. The Botanical Gardens have a fine classical collection donated by gold mining entrepreneurs. The Flight From Pompeii, and Spring. Autumn, Winter, Hebe, Leda and Pomona grace these gardens. The Prime Ministers' Avenue is updated with a new bust to record each incoming Prime Minister of Australia.

While you are here make sure you visit the magnificent Craig's Royal Hotel. Mark Twain and Prince Alfred once slept here. Today you can enjoy its colonial authenticity, as you can at Ballarat Terrace where gracious accommodation is offered in the renovated Victorian terrace home. Surrounding Ballarat are further attractions like the famous Yellowglen Vineyards. Don't miss the Wallace Cheesery and the Yuulong Lavender Estate.

Eureka Stockade Event

Not only did the Goldfields bring wealth, but along with it came turmoil. In fact, one of the greatest dramas in Australian history occurred on the Ballarat goldfields. The Eureka Stockade remains the only armed civil uprising against the government in Australia's history. All miners on Victorian goldfields were expected to pay, in advance, a licensing fee. This aroused discontent amongst the miners who developed the slogan "no taxation without representation". On November 29, 1854, thousands of miners gathered at Bakery Hill and defiantly burnt their licenses. A few days later, after grouping together behind a stockade, they were confronted by the soldiers. In the early hours of December 3, 22 miners and six of the attackers died in the battle. Eureka was the name of the claim in which the miners built their timber barricade. The battle only lasted 15 minutes but the event will remain deeply engraved in Australia's history. Its outcome was the quickening of the development of democracy in Australia, the license fee was replaced by a miner's right and holders of miner's rights were given the right to vote.

Sovereign Hill

Ballarat is also home to the delightful Sovereign Hill - a faithful and fascinating re-creation of an old gold mining town of the 1850s. It is located on the site of the former Sovereign Quartz Mining Company. Here you can see township bakers demonstrate colonial breadmaking, a smithy showing how horseshoes are made, an old fashioned printer producing a newspaper and pan for real gold. You can visit the mining museum and discover the process of obtaining gold from quartz. At night, the sound and light performance Blood on the Southern Cross encapsulates the Eureka story.

Opposite lies the Gold Museum where the history of this magic metal has been captured and detailed. Nearby, the Ballarat Fine Art Gallery houses early and contemporary Australian art. Here, such finely regarded artists as Eugene Von Guerard, William Dobell, Sidney Nolan and Russell Drysdale chronicle the history of early Ballarat and Australia. You can also see the Eureka Flag donated by the widow of a trooper who fought at the Eureka Stockade.

Ballarat Fine Art Gallery

The contents of the Ballarat Fine Art Gallery are equally impressive. A key feature is the Lindsay Gallery where works of art by Lionel Lindsay and other members of the family are on display. The only surviving item from this artistic family's house in Creswick is their sitting room which you can also see in the gallery. Paintings of Eugene Von Guerard portraying Ballarat in the 1850s and those of Waiter Withers, E. Phillips Fox and other early Australian School Painters are also on display.

At the Gallery at Castlemaine you can see Frederick McCubbin's Golden Sunlight which was donated by Dame Nellie Melba. You can also admire the works of Tom Roberts and E. Phillips Fox who underline the importance of the Heidelberg School in the development of Australian art. And that is not to mention the several Margaret Preston's you will discover here.

Collectively the three Victorian art galleries in Ballarat, Bendigo and Castlemaine hold some of Australia's key art pieces and other works which portray early regional scenes are valuable historical references and certainly worth noting. You will discover many outdoor works of art in Ballarat which also mark the exuding confidence of the goldrush.

Botanical Gardens

The most splendid gardens in the Goldfields region can be seen at Ballarat and Castlemaine. You will see a statutory pavilion in Ballarat's botanical gardens which was built a century ago to house a collection given to the city.

Imposing trees and perfect lawns covering 40 hectares surround Lake Wendouree. Many of the trees you'll see are over 120 years old and feature on the National Trust's Register of Significant Trees. The gardens are famous for their begonias and the town hosts an annual begonia festival. Another attraction of this festival is the splendid floral carpet made from over 100,000 fresh flowers.

The Town

Sturt and Victoria streets terminate on either side of the Bridge Mall, the central shopping area at the base of quaint Bakery Hill with its old shopfronts. Southeast of the city centre, Eureka Street runs off Main Street towards the site of the Eureka Stockade, with several museums and antique shops along the way. Main Street becomes Ballarat–Buninyong Road, and six blocks down is crossed by Bradshaw Street, where you’ll find Sovereign Hill, the re-created gold town. Northwest of the centre, approached via Sturt Street, are the Botanical Gardens and Lake Wendouree.

The most complete nineteenth-century streetscape is probably along Lydiard Street, which runs from the centre up past the train station; the street has several two-storey terraced shopfronts, with verandahs and decorative iron-lace work, mostly from the period 1862–89. The former Mining Exchange (1888) has been recently renovated to its former splendour, and the architecture of Her Majesty’s Theatre (1875) also proclaims its goldrush-era heyday. 

The Ballarat Fine Art Gallery at 40 Lydiard St (daily 10.30am–5pm; $4; guided tours Mon–Fri 2pm, Sat & Sun 2.30pm), another superb building, is the oldest provincial art gallery in Australia, established in 1884. Its extensive collection is particularly strong on colonial and Heidelberg School paintings; the original Eureka Flag – tatty and ragged – is also here. Displayed alongside are the watercolours of S.T. Gill, a self-taught artist who painted scenes of goldrush days in Ballarat. In another part of the gallery is a reconstruction of the drawing room of the famous Lindsay family (whose best-known members are the artist Norman Lindsay and the writer Jack Lindsay), from nearby Creswick, complete with several of their paintings. There’s also a representative modern collection and a good café. Nearby, on Sturt Street, check out the imposing Classical-revival town hall, which dominates the centre.

There are still over fifty hotels in Ballarat – survivors of the hundreds that once watered the thirsty diggers. Some of the finest are on Lydiard Street: Craig’s Royal Hotel at no. 10 and the George Hotel at no. 27 are an integral part of Ballarat’s architectural heritage. Sadly, during the 1970s, the council forced most of the old pubs to pull down their verandahs on the grounds that they were unsafe, so very few survive in their original form. One that does is attached to the Golden City Hotel, 427 Sturt St, which took the council to the Supreme Court to save its magnificent wide verandah with original cast-iron decoration; the hotel is now open at weekends as a bar and is appreciatively packed out in summer.