Tasmania (Eastern Region)
Tasman Highway
For much of its length along the sunny east coast, the Tasman Highway gently rises and falls through grazing land and bush-covered hills. In summer there’s something of an unspoilt Mediterranean feel about this coast, with its long white beaches, blue water stretching to a cloudless sky, scenic backdrop of hills, and a thriving local fishing industry. 

Because the east coast is sheltered from the prevailing westerly winds and is washed by warm offshore currents, it has one of the most temperate climates in Australia. This, and the mainly safe swimming beaches, mean that it’s a popular destination for Tasmanian families in the school holidays – prices go up and accommodation is scarce from Christmas to the middle of February. Even so, it’s still relatively undeveloped and peaceful; there are four national parks, which include a whole island – Maria Island – and an entire peninsula – the glorious Freycinet national Park.
The east coast is also Tasmania’s best cycling route: it’s relatively flat, and the winter climate is mild enough to tackle it in colder months, too. Distances between towns are reasonable, there’s a string of youth hostels so you don’t need to camp, and there are few cars. St.Helens is the largest town on the east coast, with a population of just over a thousand; situated on Georges Bay, it makes a good base to explore the northeast corner and Mount William National Park. The oldest town, Swansea, lies sheltered in Great Oyster Bay, facing the Freycinet Peninsula. To the north, Bicheno is a small fishing town with fantastic diving, and it’s a convenient place from which to visit both the Freycinet National Park (and its tiny settlement of Coles Bay) and the Douglas Apsley National Park inland. The highway detours inland at St Marys, although there’s a more recently built road that allows you to follow the coast and enjoy spectacular views without having to tackle any hills.

St Helens to Scottsdale
From St Helens, the Tasman Highway cuts across the northeast highlands towards Launceston, 170km away. This is mostly dairy country, although there’s the odd patch of surviving rainforest and the remnants of a tin-mining industry, based around the Blue Tier, a mountain that experienced a mining boom in the 1870s. Many ghost towns were left after the mines finally closed in the 1950s.

Twenty-six kilometres out of St Helens is the turn-off south for PYENGANA (1km) and St Columba Falls (a further 4km). In Pyengana it’s worth touring Healey’s Pyengana Cheese Factory (daily 9am–6pm; free), where you can watch the stuff being made and buy all the ingredients for a picnic at the falls. Further along, you come to St Columba Falls Hotel  – the “Pub in the Paddock” – which looks like a farmhouse; it’s a real country local, serving huge steaks (meals daily). At the end of the road (the last bit on dirt) is the Columba Falls State Reserve, an area of cool, temperate rainforest. The short walk to the viewing platform at the base of St Columba Falls is easy, passing through a forest of manferns and under a canopy of sassafras and myrtle. At 110m, the falls are the highest in Tasmania, pouring with tremendous force over the cliffs – they’re truly thunderous in winter, when the viewing platform is shrouded in mist.

Back on the main road approaching the Blue Tier, Goshen is the first of the ghost towns: little more than an old school and the ruins of the Oxford Arms Inn. A little further on is the turn-off for Goulds Country, with the remaining buildings – all wooden – of what was once a town, and Lottah. The Weldborough Pass (595m) is probably the most beautiful part of the drive, with views across the valleys to the sea; it’s worth taking the twenty-minute walk through the Weldborough Pass Scenic Reserve, predominately myrtle forest with manferns and occasional tall blackwoods. WELDBOROUGH itself, once the centre of a Chinese mining community, now consists of the Weldborough Hotel, where you can get a meal (Mon–Sat) and a basic pub room for the night; there’s also a campsite with showers at the back.

Practicalities

Because the east coast is not heavily populated, banking facilities are rather inadequate, with no ATMs. Complete banking services are available only at St Helens and Scottsdale (both Westpac), while small settlements have post offices that are also Commonwealth Bank agents. EFTPOS facilities are widely available in shops and service stations, but it’s important to make sure you always have enough cash.

Transport services don’t run to daily schedules either – another good reason to cycle. From Hobart, Tasmanian Redline Coaches has one service to Bicheno via Swansea (Tues, Thurs & Fri), two Sunday Launceston bound services, which stop at Swansea, Bicheno, St Helens and St Marys, and a weekday service to St Helens and St Marys. From Launceston, Redline goes to Derby via Scottsdale (1–2 daily except Sat), to Bicheno and Swansea (1 daily Mon–Fri), and to St Helens via St Marys (1 daily except Sat). 

Tasmanian Wilderness Travel has scheduled year-round services up the east coast from Hobart to St Helens (1 daily Wed, Fri & Sun). Three local bus companies also operate: Sun Coast (tel 03/6376 1753) between Derby and St Helens via St Marys; and Peakes (tel 03/6372 5390) between St Marys and Swansea via Bicheno (both Mon–Fri only); and Coles Bay–Bicheno Coach Service (tel 03/6257 0293), which takes you to Freycinet National Park daily (though out of season you often need to book). If you don’t fancy getting stuck somewhere for a couple of days, check timetables carefully.