These rough men provided a vital link in the continuing survival of the Tasmanian Aboriginal people, ironically by stealing women to work for them on the islands. When sealing ended, the communities survived by muttonbird harvesting, a seasonal industry which continues today (with land rights claims in 1995 giving title to several outlying islands).
Around the island
For more history, it’s just a few kilometres northwest to the Emita Museum (summer daily 1–5pm; rest of the year Sat & Sun 1–4pm; $2), where there’s a display of shell necklaces made by the Aboriginal people of nearby Cape Barren, plus exhibits relating to sealing and shipwrecks. In the grounds there’s a replica of a muttonbirding shed, with magazines covering the walls and a dirt floor lined with tussock grass. Most professional muttonbirders are Aboriginal, and with Strait Lady Island Adventures (tel 03/6359 4507, fax 6359 4533) you can visit the outlying islands during the April season to watch the oily birds being slaughtered, plucked and boiled – not for the faint-hearted.
History aside, isolated Flinders Island is very much a mecca for bushwalkers. Only about half of the island is cultivated, and you can walk its entire length in about six days on the partially signposted north–south Flinders Trail, a route designed to provide a sampling of the various terrains. The best-known walk, however, is to the distinctive summit of Mount Strzelecki, in the Strzelecki National Park in the south. The climb to the top starts about 10km south of Whitemark, signposted on Trousers Point Road – look out for a brown national park sign. It’s not a difficult walk, but it is long – about 6km return (4–5hr). The wind is fierce at the summit, and mists roll in, so wear something wind- and waterproof. Trousers Point itself, also near the park, is a good introduction to the delights of the island’s deserted beaches. The site, with its fine, white sand and rust-coloured rock formations, is particularly spectacular, with Mount Strzelecki rising up behind the granite headland; there’s a free camping area here, with water available.
The Flinders Island Ecology Trail is a circuit designed to be followed in a car, with five stopping-points where interpretive material is provided. Walkers Lookout, in the Darling Range, is a good starting point, offering the classic panorama of Flinders and the surrounding islands, with signs pointing out all the landmarks; the other four points on the route highlight bird habitats. You can see the endemic protected Cape Barren goose everywhere – even in people’s paddocks – and likewise the island’s wombats.
Practicalities
As there’s no public transport, the best option is to rent a car and arrange to pick it up at the airport on arrival. Prices are quite reasonable: from around $50–65 per day with Bowman Transport (tel 03/6359 2014), Flinders Island Car Rentals (tel 03/6359 2168, fax 6359 2293), Flinders Island Transport Services (tel 03/6359 2060) or Furneaux Car Rental (tel 03/6359 2112). You can rent bikes from Flinders Island Bike Hire (tel 03/6359 2000) for $10 per day.
There are two main bases on the island: WHITEMARK, the administrative centre on the west coast, and LADY BARRON in the south, the main fishing area and deep-water port; both places have shops, fuel and accommodation. Whitemark has the island’s only bank – Westpac (Mon–Thurs noon–3.30pm, Fri noon–4.30pm) – but no ATM facilities. There is also a shop at Killiecrankie Bay in the northwest of the island – where you can fossick for topaz – and a campsite with water and showers (tel 03/6359 8560).
You can camp for free at the coastal reserves, or on any crown land as long as it’s 500m from the road: designated sites are at Allports Beach, Lillies Beach, North East River and Trousers Point, and all have toilets and fireplaces, though only the last has water.
Places to stay in and around Whitemark include the Flinders Island Cabin Park, next to the airport 5km north of town, and the recently renovated Flinders Island Interstate Hotel in the centre of town, where most rooms are en-suite; the hotel also serves excellent meals (closed Sun). Sweet Surprises Coffee Shop is a decent place for a daytime snack (closed Sun) and also functions as an unofficial tourist centre. Lady Barron is a far nicer place to stay, however. The Flinders Island Lodge, attached to the Furneaux Tavern and overlooking the picturesque Furneaux Sound, has very spacious motel units. The best meals on the island – featuring plenty of fresh fish and seafood – are served here in the Shearwater Restaurant, or in the less expensive front bar.