Tasmania (Northern Region)

Deloraine
DELORAINE is a delightful hilly town, often shrouded in mist, even on summer mornings, and divided into two parts by the bubbling Meander River. Although the area was settled by Europeans in the 1830s, Deloraine didn’t really begin to develop until after 1846, and today it’s a National Trust-classified town. West Parade follows the river, facing the park; at no. 17 is the Georgian Bonney’s Inn (1830), with an elegant portico – the town’s oldest remaining building (now a B&B).

At the next block, Westbury Place rises up steeply from West Parade; if you climb the hill you’ll reach St Marks Church (1860), with its tall spire. At the top of the hill there’s a scenic lookout that gives a panoramic view over the town and the Western Tiers to the south. 

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Deloraine has a café culture, plenty of secondhand and antique shops, and a small, alternative arts-and-crafts scene, witnessed regularly at the market on the first Saturday of every month across the river opposite the Apex Caravan Park, and at the annual Tasmanian Craft Fair, a huge event running since 1980 and held over four days in early November (contact the information centre for details).

Close to prime bushwalking areas in the Western Tiers, Deloraine is an established base for walkers. Popular tracks are the short walk to Allum Cliffs, overlooking the Mersey River Gorge (40min return), signposted on the road between Mole Creek and Chudleigh; a difficult walk to Quamby Bluff, renowned for its myrtle rainforest (6.5km; 6hr; beginning at Brodies Road, off the Lake Highway); the track to Liffey Falls (8km; just under 3hr; beginning at the picnic ground 5km west of the tiny community of Liffey), and the day walk to Meander Falls through the Meander Forest Reserve, about 25km south of Deloraine, reached via the small settlement of Meander and Meander Falls Road (10km; 6–7hr; beginning from the picnic ground). There’s a walker registration and information booth at the Meander Falls car park. 

A free leaflet issued by Forestry Tasmania, Visiting the Great Western Tiers, has a map of the reserve and tracks; you can pick it up from the Deloraine tourist office. If you’re not confident to walk on your own, Taswalks (tel 03/6363 6112) or Guided Forest Walks (tel 03/6369 5151 or 6362 2046), lead guided walks; Tiger Wilderness Tours (based in Launceston; tel 03/6326 6515) offer bushwalking tours of the Meander Valley (6hr 30min; $45) and Liffey Falls (5hr 30min; $55).

The western end of the Great Western Tiers overlooks MOLE CREEK, 24km southwest of Deloraine, where you’ll find the Trowunna Wildlife Park (daily 9am–5pm; $7.50, children $3.50), the best of its type in Tasmania. Informed park keepers will enlighten you with their explanations of the fauna. There are plenty of animals, including Tasmanian devils, most of which have been rescued from road accidents. You can also buy delicious local honey at Mole Creek from Stephen’s Leatherwood Honey Factory (Mon–Fri 8am–5pm). 

About 20km west of Mole Creek, are two rather spectacular underground caves: Marakoopa Cave, with huge caverns, streams, pools and glow-worms (daily 10am, 11.15am, 1pm, 2.30pm & 4pm; 50–80min); and the smaller but more richly decorative King Solomons Cave, with stalactites and stalagmites (daily 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm; 40–60min); admission is $8 for each cave, or $12 for both. From the caves, you could take a winding route to Cradle Valley.

Practicalities

In Deloraine itself there’s a volunteer-run Visitor Information Centre at 98 Emu Bay Rd (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 9am–6pm; tel 03/6362 3471), with maps and details on walking times and conditions; the centre is housed in an old inn with an attached folk museum ($2). 

Among several operators leading outdoor activities in the area are Central Highlands Trail Rides, Brodies Road, Golden Valley (tel 03/6369 5298), who have three-hour rides around Quamby Bluff ($40) or a six-hour ride to Jackys Marsh, with its tall eucalypt forests ($80, including lunch); overnight camping trips to the top of the Central Plateau can also be arranged. 

Bonney’s Farm (tel 03/6362 2122) offers tailor-made “soft” tours to areas around Deloraine, such as Mole Creek Caves and Liffey Falls ($20 half-day, $40 full-day), and to Cradle Mountain (day-tour $45 including Mole Creek Caves and Sheffield; drop-off for 2–3 hours walking). You can also head up to the lakes of the Central Plateau with the Tasmanian Fly Fishing School, based in Deloraine (tel 03/6362 3441). 

Finally, Wild Caves Tours (Oct–April only; tel 03/6367 8142), based at Mole Creek, offers excellent $65 half-day and $130 full-day caving tours of the Mole Creek caves, underground streams and subterranean systems; the full-day trip includes all meals.

A good motel on the outskirts of town is Mountain View Country Inn, 144 Emu Bay Rd  – though it’s on the main road, the row of units afford great views of the Western Tiers. Bonney’s Farm, off Weetah Road, 4km northwest of Deloraine, has a guesthouse (B&B) and self-contained two- or three-bed units, and arranges tours around the area. In the centre of town, the big old Deloraine Hotel, faces the river on the corner of Emu Bay Road. Virtually next door, old-fashioned Bonney’s Inn, 17 West Parade, has spacious suites suitable for families. Camping is available at the riverside Apex Caravan Park, 51 West Parade. There are also several places to stay in Mole Creek, ranging from an excellent campsite with coin-operated showers to the congenial Mole Creek Guest House with its own restaurant and tourist information.

In Deloraine there are plenty of informal places to eat on the main street, Emu Bay Road. The best is the Delicatessen Coffee Shop at no. 36 (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm), a combination of deli counter and tearoom. It’s popular with locals, who enjoy the cakes and freshly baked baguettes with gourmet fillings; the most expensive dish is $8. The Emu Bay Brasserie at no. 21 (tel 03/6362 2067; licensed; 9am–2.30pm, dinner from 6pm; closed Sun & Mon) has a casual café atmosphere but serves upmarket meals. At the Arcoona Restaurant, East Barrack Street (dinner Tues–Sat; licensed; tel 03/6362 3443), the chef has a great reputation for his seasonal menu and fresh Tasmanian produce. The best place in town for pub meals is the Deloraine Hotel; you can eat in the dining room away from the noisy pokie machines.

The two major bus companies both make regular stops in Deloraine. Tasmanian Redline Coaches on its Launceston–Devonport service (3 daily), and its Launceston–Deloraine service (5 daily Mon–Fri, 3 daily Sat & Sun) which continues on to Mole Creek once daily on weekdays; and Tasmanian Wilderness Travel on its Launceston–Cradle Mountain “Wilderness” service (May–Oct 1 daily Tues, Thurs, Sat & Sun; Nov–April 1 daily). The depot for Redline is the video shop by the roundabout at 29 West Church St (tel 03/6362 2046); Tasmanian Wilderness Travel are based at Sullivans Restaurant, at 17 West Parade.