South Australia (Fleurieu Peninsula)

VICTOR HARBOR, on Encounter Bay, was once a popular holiday destination for Adelaidians. In the 1920s there were 65 guesthouses and thousands poured in during the peak season; an uncomfortable four-hour train ride only added to the adventure. Then, as decent roads and the motor car brought it within an hour’s drive, fewer people came – it was too easy, too close to home. Now, however, thanks to whales (plus penguins and the re-emergence of train power), Victor Harbor is experiencing a resurgence, evident in a much-redeveloped esplanade centred around a grassy foreshore square with a bronze fountain of a diving whale.

In the 1830s there were three whaling stations here, hunting southern right whales. They were so called because they were the “right” ones to kill: slow-moving because of their high oil content, which fortuitously also made them float after their slaughter. They would come to Encounter Bay to mate and breed between June and September, heading close to shore where they became easy targets. After the peak period in the decade of the 1830s, their numbers began to decline: the last one taken here was in 1878, and by 1930 they’d been hunted almost to extinction. Half a century later there were signs of recovery, and in 1991 forty were spotted in the bay and eighty thousand people flocked to see them. Between June and October in 1998, sixteen females stayed in the bay to calf, and a dozen humpback whales were also spotted – it’s estimated that almost a thousand visitors came here to watch the whales from the shoreline. 

Not surprisingly, Victor Harbor converted a Heritage-listed former railway goods shed on Railway Terrace into the South Australian Whale Centre (daily 10am–5pm; $5). It has excellent interpretive displays, exhibits and screenings on whaling and on the natural history of whales, dolphins and the marine environment. The centre also acts as a monitoring station, locating and tracking whales, and confirming sightings, most likely in June, July or August (hotline for information on locations tel 1900/931 223; 75¢ per minute; www.webmedia.com.au/whales). To report your own sighting, dial 08/8552 5644.

It’s not only whales that bring visitors to Victor Harbor, but also Little Penguins, who come to nest, roost and moult on Granite Island, linked to the Esplanade by a narrow causeway. A couple of hours after dusk they come back from feeding – this is the best time to see them, on one of the centre’s ranger-led penguin walks ($5; 1hr; daytime tours also available; booking essential on tel 08/8552 7555). Before exploring the island you can visit the Penguin Interpretive Centre, which houses an audiovisual holographic display with a 3D park ranger giving the lowdown on daily penguin life (open an hour before the start of a walk; $2, walk and centre admission combined $6). You can walk across the 500m causeway to the island at any time, or get there on a traditional holiday ride with the Granite Island Horse Tram (daily 10am–9.50pm; $5 evening return, $4 daytime return).

Other local attractions include two Sunday steam trains (sometimes diesel-hauled), the Cockle Train that runs on the otherwise disused line along the coast to Goolwa via Port Elliot and back (every Sun & daily during school holidays; $15 return), and the Southern Encounter from the Adelaide Hills to Gollwavia Victor Harbour. If you’re travelling with restless children, Greenhills Adventure Park, Waggon Road, alongside the Hindmarsh River (daily 10am–5.30pm, later in summer; $12.50 adult or child), has activities from canoeing to go-kart racing, while Urimburra Wildlife Experience (daily 9am–6pm; $6.50, child $3.50), 5km north on Adelaide Road, is an open-range park with native animals from all over the continent.

Newland Head Conservation Park

Attractions

• THE BLUFF A few kilometres west of Victor Harbor is the Bluff, also known as Rosetta Head. This 200 metre high granite outcrop has good walking trails and magnificent views of Encounter Bay, Victor Harbor and the surrounding countryside. A whaling station was once located at Encounter Bay, which proved a reasonably safe anchorage for ships.

• THE COCKLE TRAIN This is one of Australia's most beautiful scenic train rides. It travels past beautiful Southern Ocean beaches, sandhills and through historic towns along Australia's oldest public railway - the sixteen kilometres of track between Victor Harbor and Goolwa. The original track was laid in 1854, between Goolwa and Port Elliot; 10 years later it was extended to Victor Harbor. The train normally consists of an engine and carriages built early this century, and the running time is around 30 minutes.
• GLACIER ROCK Fourteen kilometres west of Victor Harbor, Glacier Rock is a 500 million year old (give or take a few years) boulder carved out by the glaciers that once covered the entire area of the South Coast.
• GRANITE ISLAND One of Victor Harbor's main visitor attractions, the island is linked to the mainland by a causeway. A horse tramway carries visitors to the island behind a placid Clydesdale. On the island, fairy penguins hide beneath rocks during the day, coming out at night to feed and frolic. A chairlift to the island summit provides great views.
• GREENHILLS ADVENTURE PARK On the outskirts of Victor Harbor, Greenhills Adventure Park covers ten hectares near the banks of the Hindmarsh River. Many kinds of recreational activity are available, including water slides, go-karts, a maze, half court tennis, par 3 golf, canoes and train rides. A special feature is the children's farmyard and wallaby enclosure. Kiosk and barbecue facilities are available.
• MUSEUM OF HISTORICAL ART The museum features a variety of historical paraphernalia including firearms, coins, paper money, badges, bottles and Aboriginal artefacts. Also on display are shells, rocks, minerals, moths and butterflies.

• THE OLD CUSTOMS HOUSE AND STATION MASTER'S HOUSE Built in 1866, this Georgian-style house was the former Harbour, Customs and Station Master's residence. Now on the State Heritage register, the museum features five rooms decorated with period furniture and a collection of memorabilia including books and photographs.

• URIMBIRRA WILDLIFE PARK On the northern outskirts of Victor Harbor, Urimbirra Wildlife Park has more than seventy species of Australian animals and birds in their natural settings. Paths winding through the park enable visitors to see the animals at close range. Special features are a nocturnal animal house and also crocodiles.

Accommodation & Food

Good places to eat abound. The super Cafe Bavaria at 11 Albert Place is a gleaming venue with delicious fresh-baked German cakes and savouries at reasonable prices (closed Mon). If you’re after Italian food, head for Nino Solari’s Pizzeria, nearby at no. 16, where you can plough into some generous portions of pasta and home-made gelati; for fish, try the old-fashioned South Coast Fish Café, 10 Ocean St, or the Anchorage Café on beachfront Flinders Parade, a lively city-style café with entertainment (ranging from classical harpists to bands) and an eclectic menu with good choice for vegetarians. Two good places to drink are on the Esplanade: the Hotel Crown serves cheap bar meals and has big-name bands on weekends, while the more upmarket Hotel Victor has a varied bistro menu.

Events

• VICTOR HARBOUR FOLK FESTIVAL (October) Held every October long weekend, this festival celebrates folk music in its many permutations. Links with the past are evident with the re- appearance of steam driven vessels on the river.