Sinmpson Desert National Park

The heart of the Simpson Desert is made up of a sea of drifting sand ridges, but it is surrounded by areas of bare rock and rounded stones called gibbers. This mostly uninhabited area contains several conservation sites, including Simpson Desert National Park and Witjira National Park in South Australia. The desert was first visited in 1845 by Charles Sturt, but it was not crossed until the 1930s. It was named after Allen Simpson, an Australian philanthropist and geographer.

Simpson Desert Regional Reserve

Simpson Desert Crossing

In winter a steady stream of vehicles moves from west to east (the easier direction since the dunes’ east slopes are steeper and harder to climb), but there’s no help along the way, so don’t underestimate the difficulties. Convoys need to include at least one skilled mechanic and, apart from the usual spares, a long-handled shovel and a strong tow-rope. You’ll also need more than adequate food and water (six litres a day per person), while keeping weight to a minimum, and of course fuel – around a hundred litres of diesel if you take the shortest route, or two hundred litres of petrol. 

Dune-ascent techniques start with reducing tyre pressures to around 15psi to increase traction; select the gear and build up revs before starting. Don’t attempt a gear change on the way up. If you don’t make it over, slide down and try again; lighter vehicles may end up towing overburdened trucks. If all else fails, detours bypass many dunes.

The most testing, direct route follows the French Line, with the Rig Road detouring around the worst section but adding substantial distance (and fuel requirements) to the crossing. The enjoyment is mostly in the driving, though there’s more than sand to look at: trees and shrubs grow in stabilized areas and at dusk you’ll find dune crests patrolled by reptiles, birds, small mammals and insects. Photographers take advantage of clear skies at night to make time exposures of the stars circling the heavens. 

Purni Bore, 70km from Dalhousie, is another uncapped spout (though this may change with growing concerns over diminished ground water) where birdlife and reeds fringe a 27°C pool. A post battling to stay above shifting sand at Poeppel Corner (269km) marks the junction of Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory; lakes here vary in their salt content and sometimes have to be skirted around. After the corner the dunes become higher but further apart, separated by claypans covered in mulga and grassland. Big Red, the last dune, is also the tallest; once over this it’s a clear 41-kilometre run to Birdsville.

Note: A large area of the Simpson Desert outside the Witjira National Park and the Simpson Desert Conservation Park is now a Regional Reserve under the control of the NPWS, from whom you should seek advice and a Desert Parks Pass before setting out. Call the NPWS at Hawker (tel 08/8648 4244) or Birdsville (tel 07/7656 3249).