South Australia (Riverland)

RENMARK, on a bend of the Murray 254km from Adelaide, is the last major town before the border with New South Wales. The P.S. Industry is moored here: one of the few wood-fuelled paddle steamers left on the Murray, it cruises once a month (1hr 30min; $10; contact the tourist centre for times and bookings). Other cruises from Renmark leave from Renmark wharf and head upstream 7km past colourful river cliffs on the Big River Rambler (daily 2pm, during school holidays 10am; 2hr; $16). 

Opposite the tourist centre is the huge Renmark Community Hotel, a focal point for the town, built in 1897 and given its classic facade in the 1930s. The beautiful Da Vincis is the one remaining bar with Art Deco features, while the rest of the hotel is in a tacky 1970s style. Adelaide bands play in the hotel on Friday night; other entertainment takes place at the Chaffey Theatre on 18th Street (tel 08/8586 5462), an impressive performing arts centre hosting amateur and professional plays, films and concerts. 

Olivewood, on the corner of Renmark Avenue and 21st Street (Mon & Thurs–Sun 10am–4pm, Tues 2–4pm; $3.50), is the former home of the Chaffey brothers, now owned by the National Trust. A palm-lined drive leads through a citrus orchard and olive trees to the house, which is a strange hybrid of Canadian log cabin and Australian lean-to. The attached museum is the usual hotchpotch of local memorabilia, unrelated to the Chaffeys or their ambitious irrigation project.

Attractions

• BREDL'S WONDER WORLD OF WIILDLIFE  This wildlife park is one of Australia's largest private zoos and has the biggest collection of reptiles in the country. On show are snakes, alligators and crocodiles as well as other animals and birds. Make a time to watch the snake feeding and handle the boa constrictor.

• HARDING'S FOLKLORE GALLERY The central feature of this gallery is its massive 74 square metre ceiling mural. It depicts colonial Australian bushrangers and took more than 3000 hours to finish. Also on display are collections of colonial art and weapons.
• OLIVEWOOD This is the home of South Australia's irrigation pioneer, George Chaffey. Built of pine logs, it sits in beautiful grounds surrounded by palms, olive and citrus trees. A museum at the rear of the house exhibits old photographs, early Renmark artefacts and an old copper used to manufacture olive oil.

• 'PS INDUSTRY'. This working paddlesteamer was built in 1911 as a workboat for the South Australian Engineering and Water Supply Department. Its job was to keep the river open for traffic by removing snags. Restored to its original condition, it is still powered by steam. It is moored next to the Renmark Information Office.

• RUSTON'S ROSE GARDEN

• TERRIGAL FAUNA PARK This fauna park is set in an orchard and features swans, Cape Rawen geese, native ducks, kangaroos, wallabies and nocturnal marsupial. It has sixty aviaries with Australian parrots, there is also a miniature children's zoo. Pheasants roam the grounds.

The obvious place to stay is the landmark Renmark Hotel/Motel, with rooms ranging from budget to de luxe, and a bistro, outdoor swimming pool and spa. The Renmark Caravan Park, on Patey Drive 2km east of town, has an idyllic setting along 1km of riverfront. The Riverbend Caravan Park, also on the Murray, is closer to town but with a less restful highway location. 

Three good restaurants are Ginger Mick’s Pizza, 124 Murray Ave (tel 08/8586 4066), open late nightly except Sunday; for Italian food, Cafe Toppo e Ristorante, 179 Murray Ave (08/8586 5241); and, for Greek food, Sophie’s Restaurant in the Caltex service station at 202 Renmark Ave (tel 08/8586 5316). You can eat Chinese food at The Golden Palace, 114 Renmark Ave (tel 08/8586 6065; closed Tues & Sun lunch).