South Australia (Kangaroo Island)

The colony thrives here because of the scores of fish in the unpolluted waters; a specially lit boardwalk provides a rookery viewing area raised above the penguins’ route from the rocks to their cliffside burrows. Alternatively, a national park guide (Oct–March 8.30pm & 9.30pm; rest of the year 7pm & 8pm; $5) provides an informative commentary on their antics, departing from the CWA Hall next to Dolphin Rock Takeaway, or you can go on a special tour if you’re staying at the Sorrento Resort.

Penneshaw’s crescent of sandy beach at Hog Bay curves from the rocks below the wharf, where the ferries come in, around to a wooded headland. The bay provides safe swimming and even a shady shelter on the sand; above, there’s a grassy picnic reserve with barbecues. Antechamber Bay, the next body of water, 10km by road southeast of Penneshaw, also has good, safe swimming. If you drive or cycle a further 10km you’ll come to Cape Willoughby Lighthouse, at the eastern end of the island. Guided tours are offered by the NPWS (daily every 30min 10am–4pm; $5), and you can even stay in the sandstone homes of the original keepers. You’ll find more safe swimming at American Beach, southwest from Penneshaw along the scenic road that hugs Eastern Cove.

The Dudley Peninsula, on which Penneshaw stands, is attached to the rest of the island by a narrow neck of sand; at the isthmus 511 steps lead up to Mount Thisby (Prospect Hill), a 99-metre hill of sand with views across to the mainland, to Hungry Beach, Pelican Lagoon and American River on the island’s north coast, and in the opposite direction to Pennington Bay. Here there are sponge-textured weathered rocks to clamber over, and some good surf, but a dangerous undertow.

Practicalities

Penneshaw has the island’s widest range of accommodation: The friendly Sorrento Resort, set in landscaped gardens, with motel-style rooms and fully equipped cabins, plus a heated pool, spa, sauna and tennis court, bar, restaurant and tours. There’s camping at Brown Beach or the small shady Penneshaw Caravan Park on Talinga Avenue, to the left of the Sealink terminal, overlooking the beach. You can also stay in the two lighthouse keepers’ cottages at Cape Willoughby.

The best restaurant in town is the relaxed Old Post Office Restaurant, serving vegetarian and home-style meals (licensed; nightly except Tues & Wed; tel 08/8553 1063). For fresh local fish and chips or inexpensive steaks, head for Fisherman’s Cove, opposite the post office (daily 9.30am–8.30pm; takeaway or outside tables only). Penneshaw Pizza, overlooking the Sealink wharf, also serves pasta. The tin-roofed bungalow of the Penneshaw Hotel is a small and friendly place to drink, with a verandah overlooking the water; counter meals include cheap Tuesday- and Thursday-night specials. Dolphin Rock Takeaway and Launderette (daily 7.30am–7.30pm; laundry 24hr), attached to the Penneshaw Youth Hostel, does fast food and a breakfast fry-up and sells a small range of groceries, but you’d be better off going to Sharpy’s (daily 8am–7pm, summer until 8pm), the town’s general store opposite the hotel; it sells virtually everything and has a takeaway and seating area

Attractions

• CAPE WILLOUGHBY LIGHTHOUSE Twenty five kilometres south-east of Penneshaw on the eastern-most point of Kangaroo Island, the Cape Willoughby Lighthouse is the state's oldest. Built in 1852, the 27 metre tower is made of local limestone and sits on a cliff 73 metres above the sea. It has been converted to electricity.

• CHRISTMAS COVE Captain Matthew Flinders landed near here in 1802; a granite boulder on the beach bears a plaque commemorating the event. The granite boulders are glacial deposits left there millions of years ago and glacial striation marks can be seen on the rock faces at the northern end of the beach. For over 150 years this sheltered cove has been a haven for small boats. It was once a landing place for coastal ketches which brought goods in and took out produce.

• FAIRY PENGUINS These happy little creatures conduct a nightly promenade along Penneshaw foreshore as they return from their day's fishing at sea.
• FOLK MUSEUM In the former Penneshaw School, this museum houses items explaining the district's history of nautical relics with remains salvaged from shipwrecks. The building, constructed in 1922, is the third on the site; the first being built in 1869 by the community.
• FRENCHMAN'S ROCK

• NORTH COAST BEACHES - Stokes Bay is perfect for picnics, swimming and fishing. An unusual walk from the carpark takes you through a cliff of enormous limestone boulders and onto the sandy beach, protected on all land- ward sides. A large rock-enclosed pool, protected from the surf, makes a great spot for safe swimming.
• VIVONNE BAY This small settlement is located on a long sweep of clean sandy beach which is magnificent for fishing, walking and beachcombing. Several areas have been set aside with barbecue facilities and public conveniences.

• VIVONNE BAY WILDLIFE RESERVE OUTDOOR EDUCATION CENTRE Covering an area of 1700 hectares. the Vivonne Bay Wildlife Park is the largest private park on Kangaroo Island. There are more than forty kilometres of walking and vehicle tracks for visitors to explore the coastline and cliffs. The Outdoor Education programs provide information on the island's natural and settled history.