North Coast

South Australia (Kangaroo Island)

North Coast

The North coast of the Island has its own unique character - from the rugged, isolated North-West through to the expansive white, sandy beach of Emu Bay. If you choose to traverse the Ravine des Casoars, this tour should be split, to allow time to enjoy all the splendour of the North Coast.

Note: Tour times for the Cape Borda lighthouse are available from the National Parks and Wildlife Service or Visitor Information Centres.

The tour starts by travelling the Playford Highway from the Kingscote Airport intersection. Travellers from American River and Penneshaw should travel past the Kingscote Airport, turn left, and then immediately, turn right.

Travel 25 km along the Playford Highway to Penneshaw.

Parndana

"The Place of Little Gums" was established in 1963 to service the booming farming community of the time. The soldier settlement scheme, which began in 1953, almost doubled the area of agricultural land on the Island. Often described as a typical Australian country town, there is a small shopping centre, three churches and a community hotel.

Take time to look around the area. The road verges provide an ideal habitat for wildlife and, in late winter and spring, are covered with wildflowers. On Easter Sunday, the community conducts a street carnival featuring local produce and crafts.

Return to the Playford Highway, continuing West for 35 km when the road becomes a graded surface. Continue, with care, for the remaining 30 km to Cape Borda.

Cape Borda

The unusually shaped lighthouse is located 155 metres above sea level. Built in 1858, the light was manually maintained until conversion to automatic operation in 1989. Guided tours of the lighthouse and heritage museum are conducted by National Parks and Wildlife staff. There is a small coffee shop where light refreshments can be obtained.

Scotts Cove

Returning 4 km East along the Playford Highway, turn left to visit Scotts Cove lookout.

From this magnificent vantage point can be seen the spectacular North coast cliffs of Cape Torrens and Cape Forbin. At 263 metres, these are the highest coastal cliffs in South Australia.

Ravine des Casoars

Returning to the Playford Highway, you will notice a narrow track on the other side of the road. This track into the Flinders Chase National Park ends after about 7 km at a small car park. From here starts a challenging walking trail which leads to Ravine des Casoars.

The walking track is approximately four kilometres long (8 km return - allow 4 hours), and passes through low mallee vegetation before reaching a panoramic viewpoint. The trail then descends steeply to a small creek, before opening onto a narrow, sandy beach. Follow the signs from the start of the walk. It is a ring route which traverses the river bed to the sea and return. The beach is flanked by low limestone cliffs, which have been constantly exposed to wind and waves. Large caves have been formed, which are home to numerous little (fairy) penguins. You may also be able to see where early visitors wrote on the cave roof with candle soot.

Ravine des Casoars was named by French explorer Nicolas Baudin. Whilst charting the Island in 1802, he noted a large number of 'cassowaries'. Literally translated, Ravine des Casoars means 'valley of the cassowaries'. What Baudin actually observed was a large number of the Kangaroo Island Dwarf Emu. Sadly, the Dwarf Emu became extinct between 1802 and official European settlement in 1836. Bushfires and hunting by sealers or whalers are possible explanations for the demise of this unique bird.

Harveys Return

Heading back towards Kingscote, a small cemetery is located just off the road on the left.

The resting place for a number of early Cape Borda light keepers and their families, it serves as a testament to the hardships of life at a remote outpost. Due to the isolation, medical assistance often took days (or longer) to arrive. Disease, the cliffs, and the sea all claimed lives in this area.

A little further on, is Harveys Return camp ground, set back from the road. Permits for camping should be obtained from the National Parks and Wildlife Service. The small cove below the camp ground was first used as a landing site by seal hunters in the early 1800's. When the Cape Borda lighthouse became operational in 1858, the cove became the lifeline for landing supplies.

A crane was erected at the side of the cove, to enable supplies to be off loaded from a boat without the (more) hazardous journey through the breaking waves. Goods were then winched up the steep track on narrow rails by horses pulling from the flatter ground at the top of the hill. Remains of this machinery can be found, and the crane pedestal is still located on top of a rock in the cove.

Western River Conservation Park

Return along the Playford Highway approximately 25 km, turning left onto Snug Cove Road, just before the sealed road. The rise on the right is the highest point on the Island (307 metres). After 3 km, turn right onto Colmans Road. Continue until reaching the park boundary.

A short walk will take you to the top of a spectacular winter waterfall. When the water is flowing, the steep walk to the bottom is worth the effort - particularly for photographers. Extreme care should be used near the slippery rocks.

For the more adventurous, hiking down the creek leads to a rugged cove amongst steep, rocky cliffs. Watch for Osprey or Sea Eagles as the waves crash on the rocks. It may be possible to catch a glimpse of the endangered Glossy Black Cockatoo, feeding on coastal sheoaks, or perched high in the Sugar Gums nearer the waterfall. A full day should be allowed to best experience this walk.

Access to other parts of the park is difficult, due to the dense vegetation. This provides a haven for many native species, including the Southern Brown Bandicoot and Southern Stone-curlew, both of which have become very rare on the mainland.

Return along Colmans Road for 5 km, turning left onto Berryman Road. After 7 km, turn left onto Western River Road. Proceed 8 km along road taking care down the steep descent (not recommended for caravans) to Western River Cove.

Western River Cove

Toilet facilities, BBQ and shelter are adjacent to the foot bridge. Proceed over the footbridge, along river bank to a hidden sandy cove. This picturesque area is ideal for swimming, rock and surf fishing.

Snellings Beach

Proceed 400 metres back along river, turning hard left prior to the causeway. Continue up hill, enjoying spectacular views of north coast, and in clear weather, Althorpe and Wedge Islands. After 8 km turn left onto the North Coast Road, descending Constitution Hill into Snellings Beach.

At the mouth of Middle River, this beach is excellent for swimming and surf fishing, and at either end of the beach, excellent rock fishing. Care should be used when swimming in the river, due to hidden logs and weeds. Toilets are located near the beach.

King George Beach

Continue 5 km East along the North Coast Road before turning left down a narrow 2 km road. This road is not recommended for large vehicles.

The view on entering this rock bound cove is typical of many in this area. It is a favourite haunt of fishermen.

Stokes Bay

After returning to the North Coast Road, turn left and proceed 10 km East.

To the east of the rocky cove is an unusual walk through a headland of boulders bringing you to a fine, white sandy beach surrounded by cliffs. A large rock-enclosed pool provides protection from the surf, making this a safe swimming spot for all the family. Island residents and visitors frequent this great location, particularly on days when other, more open beaches, are windblown from the South.

The Rock Pool Cafe provides delightful alfresco dining. There is a camping area, toilets, and a boat ramp.

Continue East along the North Coast Road for approximately 30 km. On the left, among trees, you will notice an old stone building.

Old Wisanger School

Enter a different era of education. Inspect the books and facilities of the last century. Established as a school and church in the 1880's, the building has been restored by the local community.

Continue east for approximately 5 km, turning left on to Gap Road for a short 3 km to Emu Bay.

Emu Bay

Emu Bay is a beautiful, long (3 km), safe, beach with vehicle access on to the hard sand. Anglers can try their luck from the jetty, or launch their boats from the concrete access ramp. Adjacent to the ramp is a small caravan and camping area with basic facilities. A kiosk provides refreshments during peak times.

A bitumen road winds the 18 km back to Kingscote. If returning to Penneshaw or American River, proceed towards Kingscote, turning right at the major intersection, 14 km from Emu Bay.