South Australia (Riverland)
Murray River and its National Park
The Murray River is Australia’s Mississippi – or so the American author Mark Twain declared when he saw it at the turn of the century. It’s a fraction of the size of the American river, but in a country of seasonal, intermittent streams it counts as a major river. Like the Mississippi, the Murray helped open up a new continent, first to explorers, later to trade. Fed by melting snow from the Snowy Mountains, and the Murrumbidgee and Darling rivers, the Murray has enough volume to flow through the arid plains, eventually reaching the Southern Ocean southwest of Adelaide near Goolwa. 
Together the Murray and the Darling and its tributaries make up one of the biggest and longest watercourses in the world, giving life to Australia’s most important agricultural region, the Murray-Darling basin. For much of its length the Murray forms the border between New South Wales and Victoria, slowing its course on reaching South Australia to meander and produce extensive alluvial plains where irrigation areas are now established. Almost half of South Australia’s water comes from the Murray: even far-off Woomera in the Outback relies on it.

Historically, the Riverland was densely populated by various Aboriginal peoples. They navigated the river in bark canoes, the bark being cut from river red gums in a single perfect piece; many trees along the river still bear the scars. Nets and spears were used to catch fish, duck and emu; mussels were also an important food source. The Ngarrindjeri people’s Dreamtime story of the river’s creation explains how Ngurunderi (a Dreamtime hero) travelled down the Murray from its confluence with the Darling, looking for his two runaway wives. The Murray was then just a small stream. As Ngurunderi searched, a giant Murray cod surged ahead of him, widening the river with swipes of his tail. Ngurunderi tried to spear the fish, which he chased right through to the ocean: the thrashing cod carved out the pattern of the Murray River during the chase.

The explorers Hume and Hovell came across the Murray at Albury in 1824. In 1830 Sturt and Mitchell navigated the Murray and Darling in a whale boat, Sturt naming it after the then Secretary of State for the Colonies (coincidentally Murrundi was the Aboriginal name for part of the river). Their exploration opened up the interior and from 1838 the Murray was followed as a stock route to South Australia by drovers or “overlanders” taking sheep and cattle to newly established Adelaide. In 1853 the first paddle steamer on the Murray, the Mary Ann, was launched near Mannum. Goods were transported far inland, opening up new areas for settlement; in return, wool was carried to market. River transport reached its peak in the 1870s, but by the mid-1930s it was virtually finished – bowing to the superior speed and flexibility of the railways.

Murray River National Park

The Murray River National Park consists of Katarapko Creek, Lyrup Flats, Bulyong Island and Eckert Creek. The floodplain is considered important for the preservation of red gum and black box woodland habitat.

Katarapko Creek, a minor branch of the River Murray is across the river from Loxton. Here, in quiet backwaters and several horseshoe lagoons are numerous waterbirds. Many protected species nest and live on the island, including peaceful doves, sulphur-crested cockatoos, sacred kingfishers striped honey-eaters, regent parrots, crimson rosellas, blue-faced honeyeaters, pied butcher-birds, pelicans, ibis and darters. The waters around Katarapko Island are excellent for canoeing and fishing.

Seeing the river
The best way to appreciate the calm brown beauty of the Murray – lined with majestic river red gums and towering cliffs that reveal the area’s colourful soils – and its prolific birdlife is to get out on the water. Several old paddle steamers, and a variety of other craft still cruise the Murray for pleasure, and you can even spend a weekend on board the Murray Princess (Fri 6.30pm–Sun 2pm), based at Mannum, one hour’s drive east of Adelaide (or take ABM Coachlines; Mon–Fri daily). The boat heads up as far as Swan Reach, and onshore excursions include a bushwalk and a guided tour of Aboriginal sites at Nguat Nguat Reserve. 

Renting a houseboat is a relaxing and enjoyable way to see the river. All you need is a driving licence, and the cost is not astronomical if you can get a group of people together and avoid the peak holiday seasons. A week in an eight-berth houseboat out of season should cost around $940, in a two-berth $610. The South Australian Tourism Commission (www.visit-southaustralia.com.au) has pamphlets giving costs and facilities.

A more hands-on way to explore the wetlands and creek systems is in a canoe. The best place to rent canoes and kayaks is Riverland Canoeing Adventures, Alamein Avenue, North Loxton (tel 08/8584 1494; $24 day double kayak, $15 single kayak, cheaper weekly rates); they can provide maps, and camping equipment if you’re renting. The flat country, short distances between towns and dry climate are perfect for cycling, and bikes can be rented at various hostels along the way.