South Australia (Southeast Region)
Mount Gambier
Mount Gambler is the commercial centre of the South East. Built on the slopes of an ancient volcano, it's alternatively known as 'Blue Lake City'. The Blue Lake is the South East's largest and most popular attraction, but there are a number of other, if not quite as spectacular lakes and craters in the district. The city has many fine examples of colonial architecture built using the distinctive local stone. Mount Gambler's major industries are timber, dairy products, especially cheese, vegetables and wool.
The small city sprawls up the slopes of an extinct volcano which has three craters, each with its own lake surrounded by heavily wooded slopes and filled from underground waterways that are perfect for unusual subterranean pursuits. The Blue Lake is the largest of the crater lakes, up to 204m deep and 5km in circumference. From November to March it’s a stunning cobalt blue, reverting to duller grey in the colder months. There are lookout spots and a scenic drive around the lake, and guided tours to the surface are offered by Aquifer Tours (Nov–Jan: daily on the hour 9am–5pm & Thurs also 7pm; 45min; $4). The second largest crater holds Valley Lake and a Wildlife Park (daily 7am–dusk; free) where indigenous animals range free amid native flora; there are lookouts, walking trails and boardwalks.

The centrepiece of the city is Cave Gardens, a shady park surrounding a deep limestone cavern with steps leading some way down; the stream running into it eventually filters into the Blue Lake. At the rear of the park the municipal offices contain the Civic Centre, library and a small theatre. Fronting the park the former Town Hall houses an upmarket bistro and the Riddoch Art Gallery (Tues–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat 10am–2pm, Sun noon–3pm; free) whose focus is the impressive Rodney Gooch collection of Aboriginal art from Utopia, Central Australia, which includes work by the late Emily Kame Kngwarreye. In the same building, Studio One sells the work of local artists (Mon–Fri 10.30am–4pm, Sat 9.30am–noon).

West of the centre, on Jubilee Highway West, is the extensive complex of underground caverns at Engelbrecht Cave (guided tours hourly 9am–3pm; 45min; $4), while east of the city, Umpherston Sinkhole (open access) is also known as the Sunken Garden, since it contains Victorian-era terraced gardens – they are floodlit at night when possums come out to feed.

Subterranean exporation
From Engelbrecht Cave you can dive in limestone waterways under the city. However, an open water PADI classification is not enough to dive these dark and dangerous waters – you need a CDAA (Cave Divers Association of Australia) qualification. Contact the Mount Gambier NPWS office at 11 Helen St (tel 08/8735 1177) for further information. They can also issue permits for snorkelling at the crystal clear waters of Piccaninnie Ponds Conservation Park or Ewans Pond Conservation Park, both south of Mount Gambier near Port Macdonnell. At Piccaninnie Ponds, a deep chasm with white limestone walls contains clear water that is filtered underground from the Blue Lake – it takes five hundred years to get here.

Attractions
  • THE BLUE LAKE This is Mount Gambler's star attraction. It occupies one of the extinct craters after which the city was named. Every November the waters change from a dull. grey to deep blue and remain so for several months.The circumference of the lake is over three kilometres and the surrounding cliffs rise to seventy six metres, forming a limestone bowl. The lake is the city's source of water. There are many lookouts which offer panoramic views of the lake and surrounds. Tours of the pumping station are available.
  • THE CAVE GARDENS This is an open cave, illuminated at night and renowned for its rose gardens.
  • THE CRATER LAKES The volcanic district around Mount Gambler has numerous lakes, views and lookouts. Among them are Browne's Lake, Valley Lake, Leg of Mutton Lake and the Blue Lakes. There are many good lookouts, the best being the Centenary Tower opened in 1904 and is equipped with a powerful telescope for viewing the district.
  • ENGELBRECHT CAVE This cave lies within the city's limits and extends under seven streets. It's a good example of the water filled caves common to the area and was formed thirty to forty million years ago.
  • THE LADY NELSON TOURIST INTERPRETIVE CENTRE This complex is built around a full scale replica of the 'Lady Nelson,' the ship captained by Lieutenant Grant who first sighted the land around Mount Gambler The centre provides an insight into the people, industries and history of the region.
  • MOUNT GAMBIER COOPERATIVE DAIRY PRODUCTS A modern and well-equipped cheese factory where you can see cheese being made from a viewing gallery, watch an audio-visual production or take part in a cheese tasting.
  • TARPEENA FAIRY TALE PARK Approximately twenty five kilometres north of Mount Gambler is Tarpeena Fairytale Park. Many of the thirty five fairytale settings are depicted in wood and stone cottages, castles and caves. Lilliput land, hand-carved from stone and cement, reflects the detail and continuity which is the park's trademark.
  • TIMBER MILL TOURS Both Woods and Forests and CSR Softwoods conduct tours which show all the processes of timber treatment. On a visit to one of the huge timber mills, you'll see how the pinus radiata from the surrounding district is used.
  • UMPHERSTON CAVE This is an open cave with terraced gardens and barbecue areas. It is also an ideal spot for a picnic and has been popular since Mount Gambier's, early days when it contained a small lake.

Practicalities
For more information on Mount Gambier’s attractions, head for the excellent Lady Nelson Tourist Interpretive Centre, on Jubilee Highway East (daily 9am–5pm; exhibition $6), where the ecology, geology and history of Mount Gambier are explored from Aboriginal and European perspectives. A ten-minute narration by the ghostly holographic image of missionary Christina Smith, is based on her book The Booandik Tribe of South Australian Aborigines. She worked with a local Aboriginal tribe for 35 years, and opened a charitable home in Mt Gambier in 1865, but even though she was sympathetic to the Aboriginal plight, her attempts at conversion only contributed to the destruction of traditional values. Other highlights of the centre are the short wetlands boardwalk and a demonstration of a volcanic eruption complete with steam – quite scary when it booms.

Mount Gambier has heaps of places to stay, with motels lining the highway either side of town. The Blue Lake Motel, on Kennedy Avenue, also has backpacker rooms, a kitchen and laundry. Another hostel may open soon in the old gaol. Central Jens Hotel, at 40 Commercial St, is a classic, wide-balconied old boozer with cheap bar and bistro meals, late opening hours and en-suite accommodation.

The Mount Gambier Hotel, 2 Commercial St, has more upmarket food, but the best place to eat is the licensed Café Capri Restaurant, 53 Gray St (Mon–Sat 8.30am–10 or 11pm). Nearby, Fasta Pasta, 102 Commercial St (West), is one of a chain serving inexpensive fresh pasta with interesting sauces. There’s also the city-style Kings Bar and Bistro in the Town Hall (daily from 10am).

Heading on to Melbourne from Mount Gambier, V/Line has a daily service via Portland, Hamilton, Warrnambool, Geelong and Ballarat.

Events
  • BLUE LAKE FESTIVAL (November) This is a ten-day festival beginning with a Christmas Parade and associated functions. A variety of entertainment, including a food and wine frolic, arts and crafts displays and sporting functions ensure that there's something for everyone. The event concludes with the Generations In Jazz concerts and the awarding of the national James Morrison Jazz Scholarship.