Kangaroo Island

South Australia

Kangaroo Island

As you head towards Cape Jervis along the west coast of the Fleurieu Peninsula, KANGAROO ISLAND, only 13km offshore, first appears behind a vale of rolling hills. Once you’re on the island, its size and lack of development – there’s only one person for every square kilometre – leave a strong impression: this is actually Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville Island (north of Darwin), and as it has 450km of coastline and mostly unsealed roads, it takes some time to explore.

To see all the unusual geological features and wildlife habitats, you’ll need at least three days. Most people visit the major attractions on the south coast – Seal Bay, Little Sahara, Remarkable Rocks and Flinders Chase National Park – and miss the other sights. Aboriginal people once lived on the island, their presence evidenced by the discovery of stone tools and other items. Kangaroo Island was once joined to the mainland by a land bridge, but it’s a mystery exactly when or why the people left, or if they just died out.

Although it’s been promoted as a tourist destination for over ten years, the island is still very unspoilt and the locals are as friendly as ever; only in the peak holiday period (Christmas to the end of January, when most of the accommodation is booked up) does it feel busy. Once out of the few small towns, you won’t see shops, roadside stalls or service stations; what you will see are long, straight stretches of red road through undulating fields, dense forests of gum or mallee scrub, and the sea. There’s often a strong wind off the Southern Ocean, so bring something warm whatever the season, and take care when swimming: there are strong rips on many of the beaches. Safe swimming spots include Hog Bay at Eastern Cove and Antechamber Bay both near Penneshaw, Emu Bay, northwest of Kingscote, Stokes Bay, further west and Vivonne Bay on the south side of the island.

Kangaroo Island is possibly the best place in Australia to see an astonishing range of wildlife, largely untroubled by disease or natural predators, with a quarter of the landmass protected in the form of national or conservation parks. When Matthew Flinders first sighted the island in 1802, “black substances” seen on shore in the twilight turned out to be kangaroos, prolific and easily hunted. Kangaroos still abound, as do wallabies. Koalas were introduced at Flinders Chase National Park in 1923 as a conservation measure. They have remained free of clamidia, which is common in the mainland population, and have spread so widely that they are killing off many of the gum trees – recent calls for a cull have provoked national controversy. Other animals found here are echidnas, platypuses, Little penguins, fur seals, sea lions and, in passing, southern right whales; the last three attracted whalers and sealers, many of them American, to make a base on the island after Flinders’ discovery. What’s more, the island is home to over two hundred kinds of birds, as well as snakes.

Wild pigs and feral goats are the successors of those left here by early seafarers, and a pure strain of Ligurian bees brought by early settlers has resulted in a honey industry. There are also over a million sheep on the island, most of them Merino. However, since wool prices have dropped drastically in recent years, farmers have had to find other sources of income and Kangaroo Island is now becoming known for its gourmet foodstuffs. A sheep dairy here makes delicious Continental-style cheeses, but the latest craze is for marron farming, with about 140 licensed producers of the freshwater crustacean, a bit like a cross between a lobster and a yabbie. Other diverse new industries include abalone farming, oyster and mussel production, olive-oil pressing and the revival of eucalyptus-oil distilling.

The Island

Coming by boat, you’ll arrive at Kangaroo Island’s eastern end, at either of the two main settlements, Penneshaw and Kingscote. Of the two, smaller and more low-key Penneshaw, reached from Cape Jervis, is the more pleasant place to stay, with the added attraction of the best night-time penguin-watching. Reached from Adelaide, larger Kingscote is the focus of administration and services; it also has status as an historic town, being South Australia’s second colonial settlement, though few vestiges remain.

Between Penneshaw and Kingscote, sheltered American River is another good base. You can also get to the island by plane: the airport is situated near Cygnet River – a quiet spot with the island’s most congenial motel – on the Playford Highway. This main road links Kingscote to Flinders Chase National Park, which covers the western end of the island and offers camping and cottage facilities.

The rugged south coast provides more wildlife spotting and natural beauty: running west to east, you can visit the aptly named Remarkable Rocks, still within the national park; go bushwalking in Hanson Bay; tour the limestone caves of Kelly Hill; camp at Vivonne Bay Conservation Park; play Lawrence of Arabia among the impressive sand dunes of Little Sahara or roam amongst resident sea lions at Seal Bay. The gentler north coast has a series of sheltered beaches, such as Emu Bay and Stokes Bay, with superb camping at both locations.

North Coast

The beaches on the north coast are more sheltered than those on the south. Emu Bay, 21km from Kingscote, is a secluded and quiet spot with no shops, a few holiday homes, a couple of B&Bs, and a clean, white, sandy beach, jetty and basic campsite with toilet and water facilities only. Emu Bay also has a small penguin community. Secluded Stokes Bay is reached through a natural tunnel between overhanging boulders. There’s a delightful calm rock pool, a perfect semicircle of rounded black stones, which conveniently provides protection from the dangerous rip in the bay. Outside the tunnel, the Rockpool Cafe (daily 10am–5.30pm; tel 08/8559 2277) looks after the beachfront campsites and also sells milk and bread as well as more exotic fare such as Asian and Italian dishes and lentil burgers; it’s sometimes open for dinner during summer.

South Coast

Several conservation parks are strung along the exposed south coast. The largest is Cape Gantheaume, an area of low mallee scrub supporting prolific birdlife around Murrays Lagoon (where you’ll find the ranger station), the largest freshwater lagoon on the island. The adjacent Seal Bay Conservation Park is home to several hundred sea lions, the second-largest breeding population in Australia. They are unusually tolerant of humans and you can walk quietly among the colony on the beach at Seal Bay, accompanied by a national park guide (9am–4.15pm, until 7pm during summer holidays; from every 15min in summer to every 45min in winter; $7.50) or take a tour on the new boardwalk ($5).

Vivonne Bay, with its long, sandy beach and bush setting, is a great place to camp. The Vivonne Bay Store (tel 08/8559 4252) collects the fee for the beachfront campsite (toilets, water, barbecues). It’s safe to swim near the jetty or boat ramp or in the Harriet River, but the bay itself has a dangerous undertow. Between Seal Bay and Vivonne Bay, Little Sahara is 15km of perfect white-sand dunes rising unexpectedly out of mallee scrub.

The main features of the Kelly Hill Conservation Park are the Kelly Hill Caves, extensive limestone cave formations (NPWS guided tours daily: June–Aug hourly 10am–3pm; Sept–May hourly 10am–4pm, in summer until 5pm; $5). The tour explores only the largest cave, which is not the usual damp, bat-filled cavern but very dry, with a constant temperature of 16°C. The NPWS runs adventure caving tours of three other caves ($15–20 depending on the cave). The eighteen-kilometre return Hanson Bay Trail goes from the caves to the sea, passing freshwater lagoons and dune systems: allow at least eight hours – or longer, if you’re tempted to stop for a swim.

Getting to and from the island

Kangaroo Island Sealink ferries ply across the Backstairs Passage from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw – often a rough journey, though mercifully short. Two large vehicle ferries make the journey at least four times daily, and up to seven times during peak holiday periods, taking about forty minutes to cross: buses connect the service with Adelaide twice daily ($60 return, $88 including bus from Adelaide, cars $130, motorbikes $40, bikes $10; tel 13 1301; www.sealink.com.au). At Penneshaw connecting Sealink buses to American River ($6.50 one-way) and Kingscote ($11) need to be booked in advance.

Australian Ferries runs a passenger-only service between Glenelg and Kingscote, but it is not very reliable – rough weather or a lack of numbers can delay or cancel sailings, and the longer sea journey can be stomach-churning (daily Oct–May, limited service June & Sept, no service July & Aug; 2hr 30min; $49 one-way, $80 return, bicycle $1).

It takes thirty minutes to fly to Kingscote on Kangaroo Island from Adelaide and costs about $140 return. The three airlines are Southern Sky (2–4 daily; courtesy bus to Kingscote), Kendell Airlines (2 daily) and Emu Airways (6–7 daily). Car rental companies have offices at Kingscote Airport, and there’s a bus to town for about $10 with Airport Shuttle Services (tel 08/8553 2390).

Getting around

Once you’re on the island, you really need your own transport. As there are only four car rental firms, it’s best to book to be sure of a vehicle – that way you’ll also be met with the vehicle off the ferry or plane. In Kingscote try Budget Rent a Car, Commercial Street ($60 per day, $385 per week), or Kangaroo Island Rental/Hertz, on the corner of Franklin Street and Telegraph Road, also at the wharf at Penneshaw ($70 per day, $420 per week); Kangaroo also has 4WDs ($110 per day); Penneshaw Hire run by the Penneshaw Youth Hostel ($75 per day, $130 per two days) rents out new model cars. For cheaper deals try Koala Car Rentals, 10 Telegraph Rd, Kingscote (tel 08/8553 2399; $55 per day, $315 per week).

There are few sealed roads on the island. The main drag is the Playford Highway from Kingscote through Cygnet River and Parndana to the edge of Flinders Chase National Park; at the eastern end of the island, sealed roads feed off it to the airport and main settlements, including Penneshaw. The rest are constructed of ironstone rubble on red dirt and can be very dangerous. The recommended speed on these roads is 60kph; driving slowly also reduces the risk of collisions with native animals. The same roads make cycling a tough proposition – you’ll need a mountain bike and a tolerance for long bone-rattling stretches and choking clouds of red dust. Penneshaw Youth Hostel rents out the island’s best mountain bikes ($20 per day).

Park entrance fees and passes

With about one-third of the island deemed a national or conservation park area, many of the parks charge entry fees and extras for guided tours. However, a one-year Island Pass ($20) covers virtually all these costs (except for camping and the night-time penguin tours from Penneshaw and Kingscote), and is worth it if you’re here for a while. Thus the entry fees and tour prices quoted apply only if you don’t have a pass – add up the cost of what you want to see and work out which is cheaper. Passes can be bought from the NPWS office on Dauncy Street, Kingscote (Mon–Fri 8.45am–5pm; tel 08/8553 2381), from the parks themselves, or from the Kangaroo Island Gateway Visitor Information Centre, at the edge of Penneshaw (Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; tel 08/8553 1185) on the main road to Kingscote, which has an interpretive display on the island’s history, geology and ecology, dispenses free maps and also books accommodation and tours.

You’ll also find a wealth of information on local wildlife, as well as a handy pre-visit reading list at www.adventurecharters.com.au.

Tours and activities

Most people opt for tours, which can be made flexible and are good value if bought as part of a package. There are also a couple of tours based on the island:

Daniel’s Tours, led by the very voluble and enthusiastic Danny O’Donnell, focuses on wildlife and incorporates a two-hour walk from the hostel accommodation in Flinders Chase National Park to a secluded seal and sea lion colony;
Adventure Charters of Kangaroo Island in Kingscote, led by an ex-park ranger, offers 4WD tours with an emphasis on fine food, wine and accommodation as well as nature.

There are also a couple of dive tour operators on the island:

Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris, based at Telhawk Farm on the north coast, does five-day residential dive courses ($650 including meals and certification), with special backpackers’ rates;
Adventureland Diving, based at American Beach near Penneshaw, has three-day residential scuba courses ($426 including return ferry to Adelaide, unit accommodation, meals and certification; $275 without the ferry or meals and staying in hostel accommodation), as well as a two-day residential rock-climbing course ($300 including meals) and a half-day’s abseiling ($50) – both on the cliffs at Cape Willoughby – and a half-day spent canoeing on Pelican Lagoon ($50) or snorkelling at Penguin Head ($43).

Maps & More Details

Climate

Kangaroo Island's climate is best described as temperate. Temperatures tend to be a few degrees cooler in summer and warmer in winter than on mainland South Australia. The sea plays a large role in the island's daily weather pattern. Conditions can change frequently during the day, so pack warm clothes, even during a summer holiday.

Hotel Accommodation

Area:	Name of Hotel/Resort	Rating

Kangaroo Island (Kingscote)	Ozone Seafront Hotel	MC
Kangaroo Island (Kingscote)	Wisteria Lodge	MC

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