South Australia (Flinders Ranges)

Flinders Ranges National Park

The Flinders Ranges are among the oldest and most rugged mountains in Australia. They consist largely of sedimentary rocks that have been eroded over millions of years into steep ridges with deep, intersecting gorges. The Flinders contain some of the world's best-preserved fossils from the Precambrian era. Mallees-a type of eucalyptus shrub-and casuarinas-a tree with tiny, scale-like leaves-are common and over 30 species of acacia also grow here and over 60 species of lizard and 18 species of snake have been identified in the region.
One of the most popular tourist destinations in Flinders Ranges National Park is Wilpena Pound, a spectacular raised basin encircled by an escarpment of sandstone. St Mary Peak is the highest point in the Flinders.

Australian Aborigines lived in the Flinders before European settlers arrived, and Aboriginal artists did many rock paintings in the area. The Flinders are named after the British explorer Matthew Flinders, who sighted them in 1802.

The procession of glowing red mountains at Flinders Ranges National Park, folded and crumpled with age, produces some of the Outback’s most spectacular and timeless scenery, rising from flat scrub to form abrupt escarpments, gorges and the famous elevated basin of Wilpena Pound. The hard contrast between sky and ranges is softened by native cypresses and river red gums, and in spring the plains are burnished by wild flowers of all colours. Bushwalkers, photographers and painters flock here in their hundreds, but with a system of graded walking tracks ranging from a few minutes’ length to several days – not to mention roads of varying quality – the park is busy without being crowded.

Visiting the park
The Flinders Ranges National Park occupies much of the central Flinders Ranges. It is an extremely popular park, and takes in rugged mountain scenery, peaceful timbered gorges, with plenty of wildlife, vegetation and history. Picture-perfect Edeowie and Brachina Gorges, Aroona and Bunyeroo valleys and stunning Wilpena Pound are the park's major attractions.

Wildlife can be seen everywhere in the park - wedge-tailed eagles, soaring above their rocky eyries rare yellow-footed rock wallabies making their way along ledges, western grey kangaroos grazing undisturbed and flocks of colourful birds swooping here and there.

With the right conditions, wildflowers burst onto the landscape around spring, transforming an already beautiful scene into a brilliant wilderness. Occasionally, such as at Aroona and in Wilpena Pound, you come across the ruins of a farmhouse or shed, silent reminders that this is a harsh, unforgiving land.

The park is a popular destination, ideal for bushwalking, photography, birdwatching, camping and sightseeing.

Hiking
Most walking tracks lead into Wilpena Pound, though you can also pick up the Heysen Trail and follow it north from Wilpena for a couple of days around the ABC Range to Aroona Ruins on the northern edge of the park. The Wilpena NPWS offers booklets, maps (sometimes the 1:50,000 topographical series) and the latest information on the routes; you’re required to log out and back with them on any walk exceeding three hours. Realistically, hiking is restricted to the cooler winter months between May and October, as scant shade and reflective rocks raise summer temperatures well above 40°C. Don’t underestimate conditions: even on short excursions, you’ll need good footwear, a hat, sunscreen and water – at least half a litre per hour is recommended. Camping out, a waterproof tent, groundmat and fuel stove are essential, and note that the weather is very changeable; wind-driven rain can be a menace along the ridges and heavy downpours make tracks dangerous.