South Australia (Kangaroo Island)

Dudley Peninsula
This area of the island has many unique features, not seen by those who are on short itineraries.

A day can be easily taken to enjoy the area to the fullest. Before commencing on this tour ascertain the Cape Willoughby Lightstation tour times, which are available from the Visitor Information Centre.

If you are staying in Kingscote, allow about 45 minutes for the drive to Penneshaw.

Penneshaw

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Situated on the north-east coast of Kangaroo Island, the Cornish-style settlement is one of the more attractive towns of the Island.

With a commanding view of the mainland, just 18 km away across Backstairs Passage, Penneshaw is the community centre for Dudley Peninsula.

Gateway Information Centre

Located above Christmas Cove, this centre is now the final resting place for the original Frenchman's Rock, and an interpretive display on the Island. The Centre also stocks a range of souvenirs and local produce.

A mosaic plaza depicting the history of KI, titled "Art as History" adjoins the Information Centre.

Christmas Cove

Captain Matthew Flinders landed near here in 1802. One of the granite boulders on the beach bears a plaque commemorating this historic landing.
The granite boulders have a much longer history, having been left in the cove by a glacier over 200 million years ago.

Scratch marks made by the slow moving ice can be seen in the rock faces at the northern end of the cove.

For over 150 years this sheltered cove has been a haven for small boats. Before the jetty was built, ketches were loaded from here.

Jetty

Built in 1902 and extended in 1908/9, the jetty is currently being restored to its original splendour. With the demise of the SS Karatta in 1961, Penneshaw ceased to be a significant Island port until the commencement of operations of the Sealink passenger and vehicular ferries in 1984. Today, all freight to and from the Island leaves through this port.

Fishing

The Hog Bay Jetty is famous as a fishing spot. Tommy ruff, trevally, snook, King George whiting and salmon can be caught in peaceful, picturesque surroundings. Bait and tackle can be obtained from the service station.

Penneshaw Beach

Clean sand, safe swimming and spectacular views across Backstairs Passage to the mainland, make Hog Bay the ideal holiday beach for all ages. Toilets and picnic facilities are available.

Frenchman's Rock

Located at the eastern end of Penneshaw Beach. In 1803 Captain Nicolas Baudin, the French explorer, anchored in Hog Bay and sent a party ashore to find fresh meat water. While waiting for the water casks to fill, one of the sailors carved on a nearby rock, "Expedition de decouverte par le commandant Baudin sur le Geograpghe 1803." Translated it reads, "Expedition of discovery by Captain Baudin in the Geographe 1803".

The dome was built over the rock in 1906 to protect it, but by 1917 it was deteriorating so badly that it was removed to the Mortlock Library in Adelaide, and a replica put in its place. In 1996 the original rock was returned to Kangaroo Island, and is now located in the Gateway Information Centre at Penneshaw.

Museum

The Maritime and Folk Museum is located opposite the Penneshaw School. It is run by the Dudley Branch of the National Trust and housed in the old Hog Bay School. In addition to a fine collection of items relating to the history of the Dudley district, a special nautical section highlights the ships wrecked around the Island.

Open 3-5pm on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday (September-June), and daily during January.

Penguins

No visit to Penneshaw is complete without seeing the little penguins, which make their nests in the sand hills and rock faces around the township. The only species of penguin to breed in Australian waters, wait until dusk before coming ashore. Guided tours are conducted each night after sunset when the penguins return to their burrows, after fishing at sea.

Tours commence at the Penguin Interpretive Centre at the Lloyd Collins Reserve.

Leave Penneshaw and take the road to the left as you leave the township. Look for the Chapman River and Cape Willoughby signs. The road soon turns to ironstone where care should be exercised approaching corners and other traffic. The road is well sign posted, and after approximately 20 km you will reach Chapman River and Antechamber Bay.

On the way, you will pass Cuttlefish Bay, which is the nearest point to the mainland, and the point where the submarine electricity cable, which supplies the Island, comes ashore.

Antechamber Bay

Above and just north of the bay, and close to the road, are wonderful views of Antechamber's long wide stretch of beach, with the mainland in the background. Chapman River runs from Lashmar Lagoon into Antechamber Bay.

The area is full of tracks leading through bushland, sand hills and lagoons, and is a favourite spot for canoeists and campers.

Chapman River

Chapman River is a wonderful place to spend a day; a fine place for children to play in the shallow waters of the river mouth. There are toilets, gas BBQ, camping areas, and plenty of picnic areas. A little bridge spans the river for those who want to cross without getting their feet wet. A stroll down the beach will reveal the startling splendour of Antechamber Bay

When you leave Chapman River, turn left, continuing the drive east to Cape Willoughby Lighthouse.

Cape Willoughby Lighthouse

This was the first lighthouse built in South Australia, completed in 1852. Tours are conducted daily by National Parks staff. The coastline is extremely rugged. Adjacent to the lighthouse is the rugged "Devil's Kitchen".

The nearby Cape Willoughby Cafe provides spectacular views across Backstairs Passage while enjoying some taste sensations of the Island. Bookings are recomended.

As you leave the lighthouse and turn back towards Penneshaw, look for the a small track on the left which takes you down to Windmill Beach.

Windmill Bay

The beach is covered with almost perfectly round rocks and pebbles; a look at the roaring surf as it crashes over the rocks will soon give you the clue to their formation. The beach has a fresh water well, which still provides water for stock.

Leave the beach and return the way you came. After travelling approximately 6 km turn left at the sign for American River.

The road winds along the valley. In summer you drive under the shade of large, cool gums; in winter the landscape is intersected by little streams and pools.

Travel approximately 11 km to a gateway to Dudley Partners Cellars, on the right.

The wine industry on Kangaroo Island is small but growing. As the first cellar open to the public, it provides the opportunity to taste some of the Island's wines, and meet some local personalities.

About 1 km after crossing the Willson River, turn left at the American River sign. This road will take you to the main bitumen Penneshaw/Kingscote Road.

If you are looking for a safe swim to break your tour, turn right at the bitumen. Browns Beach and American Beach are two delightful areas for a peaceful swim.

Drive towards Kingscote for approximately 12 km. You will arrive at Mount Thisby. Look for the car park on the left.

Mount Thisby

Along the main Kingscote to Penneshaw Road, near American River, Mount Thisby was originally named Prospect Hill by Captain Matthew Flinders. The hill provides a marvellous view of Pelican Lagoon, the rolling hills, and the Southern Ocean at Pennington Bay.

As the highest point in the area, the hill was climbed by Flinders to survey the Island. There are steps to take you to the top with a rewarding view. On arrival at the top, looking North you will see the whole vista of Pelican Lagoon and American River, and on a clear day, you can see Mount Lofty in the Adelaide Hills. To the South you will see the sweep of the South Coast and Pennington Bay.

On return to your vehicle proceed back to the main road and take the road to Pennington Bay. It is well sign posted and about 1 km on a gravel road.

Pennington Bay

Pennington Bay is a wonderful surf beach, but extreme care should be used as this spot. It can even be dangerous for experienced swimmers and surfers.

In rough weather, the southerly winds blow at gale force crashing huge waves on the shore that can be heard at American River, 9 km away.

Return to the main road, turn right and almost immediately on your left you will find Muston Road, leading to American River. This road leads you past Pelican Lagoon to American River.

Observe the cairn, commemorating Matthew Flinders' visit to the area on 4 April, 1802.

American River

A visitor's guide to American River is available from shops in the town or the Gateway Information Centre.

Discovered by Matthew Flinders in 1802, the following year an American brig sailed in and during a four month stay the crew built the Independence using local timber. It is from this event that the town received its name.

The first recorded settler was Frank Potts, a boat builder, who arrived in 1842 before moving to establish the famous vineyards at Langhorne Creek on the mainland. Potts was assisted by John Buick, who in 1854 built the first home in the town.

By far the most important industry has been tourism, which was started by Nils Ryberg in 1895. A Post Office was opened on 1890, followed by a telephone service in 1910.

Excellent BBQ areas on the foreshore in and near the township are good spots for bird watching, particularly pelicans whilst fishermen clean their catch. During the evening wallabies and other nocturnal animals can be seen around the township, and an evening walk is thoroughly recommended.

A feature of the town is the magnificent carpet of freesias which bloom at the end of August. They are followed by the well-known wildflowers that adorn the Island's roadsides.

Return by the bitumen road to the main Kingscote/Penneshaw road and wind you way home.