South Australia
Barossa Valley

The Barossa Valley is one of Australia's major destinations, being known all over the world for its quality wines. A home to many major wine producers this area produces over half of the countries wine. To the east flows the Murray River which is one of the largest river systems in the world. Irrigation introduced in 1887 transformed the northern section into lush paradise with a wide variety of attractions, from watersports to wildlife and of course delicious fruits and wine.

The Barossa Valley, only an hour’s drive from Adelaide, produces internationally acclaimed wines and is the largest premium wine producer in Australia. Small stone Lutheran churches dot the valley, which was settled in the 1840s by German Lutherans fleeing from religious persecution: by 1847 over 2500 German immigrants had arrived and after the 1848 revolution more poured in. The German dialect in the area was strong until World War I, when the spoken language was frowned upon and German place names were changed by an Act of Parliament. 

The towns, however – most notably Tanunda – remain thoroughly German in character, even without the large doses of oompah tourist hype that they all serve up, and the valley is well worth visiting for the vineyards and wineries, the architecture, and the bakeries and butcher’s shops where old German recipes have been handed down through generations. 

The valley makes a popular day-trip from Adelaide, and many of the big commercial wineries are besieged by busloads of tourists intent on a day’s free drinking. The area seems thoroughly touristy and traffic-laden if you quickly whizz through it; however, the peaceful back roads yield more interest, with a number of small, family-owned wineries to explore. Many provide picnic areas and barbecues, and even children’s playgrounds.

The first vines were planted in 1847 at the Orlando vineyards, an estate which is still a big wine producer. There are now nearly fifty wineries, from multinationals to tiny specialists. Because of the variety of soil and climate, the Barossa seems able to produce a wide range of wine types of consistently high quality; the white rieslings are among the best. 

The region has a typically Mediterranean climate, with dry summers and mild winters; best time to visit is autumn (March–May), when the vines turn russet and golden and the harvest has begun in earnest. Much of the grape-picking is still done by hand and work is available from February. This is also the time of the week-long Vintage Festival, beginning on Easter Monday in every odd-numbered year (tel 08/8563 0600 for more information). Another local celebration is the International Barossa Music Festival, held annually for two weeks in early October and featuring mostly chamber music. Its headquarters are at Richmond Grove Winery on Para Road near Tanunda; other wineries act as venues, as do some of the area’s pretty Lutheran churches.

Getting into and around the Valley
The principal route from Adelaide follows the Main North Road through Elizabeth and Gawler, and then joins the Barossa Valley Highway to Lyndoch. A more scenic drive takes you through the Adelaide Hills to Williamstown or Angaston, while from the Sturt Highway you can turn into the valley at Nuriootpa.

Getting to the valley by bus is also reasonably easy: the Barossa–Adelaide Passenger Service (Mon–Fri 3 daily, Sat 2 daily, Sun 1 daily; tel 08/8564 3022) stops at the main Barossa towns en route to Angaston, or the daily Sydney-bound Greyhound Pioneer service can drop you at Nuriootpa. The exclusive tourist Bluebird Rail train runs from Adelaide all the way into Lyndoch, Tanunda and Nuriootpa (Tues, Thurs & Sun 8.50am, returning 5.20pm; $55 return; bookings essential tel 08/8212 7888; tour packages also available). If you’re cycling, you might want to consider taking your bike on the standard train to Gawler, 14km from Lyndoch.

Driving is not the ideal way to explore the Barossa, particularly if you want to enjoy tasting wines – once here, you can always rent a bike or take a tour. If you decide you do need a car to get around, you can rent one from the Caltex service station, 8 Murray St, Tanunda (tel 08/8563 2677; $65 per day). A better way to experience the area is to cycle; there’s a sealed bike track avoiding the busy highway between Tanunda and bike rental (around $10 a day) is available at Zinfandel’s, 58 Murray St, Tanunda (tel 08/8563 2822), The Bunkhaus, Barossa Valley Way, Nuriootpa (tel 08/8562 2260), and Barossa Caravan Park, Barossa Valley Way, Lyndoch (tel 08/8524 4262). There’s also a range of tours from Adelaide offered by all the big commercial tour operators. For something different, try the small-group day-tour with Groovy Grape Getaways (tel 08/8359 4422; $39), which stops at Gumeracha’s giant rocking horse, the Whispering Wall near Lyndoch, and four large wineries, and includes a barbecue lunch – the emphasis on a free grog-up makes it popular with backpackers. Prime Mini Tours (tel 08/8293 4900; $38) runs a more sedate minibus tour from Adelaide, with a similar itinerary including a three-course sit-down lunch.

Climate
The Barossa Valley lies within the state's coastal temperate zone. The mostly placid waters of Gulf St. Vincent are 60-70 kilometres away. From the standpoint of the grape, the valley is regarded as a hot district, similar to Portugal, with summer temperatures often rising to 30oC and more - stressful unless supplemented by irrigation or watering. But for the traveller, the climate is most comfortable - cool to mild in winter, warm to hot in summer, with spring and autumn being delightfully mild.

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