South Australia (Adelaide Region)

Semaphore and Henley Beach
On the coast just east of Port Adelaide, SEMAPHORE, with its picturesque jetty and fine old buildings, was important as the site of Adelaide’s signal station from 1856 until the mid-1930s, before becoming a desirable holiday spot. Its current incarnation is as a popular lesbian area with several lesbian-run cafés, a pub and a feminist bookshop. 

These are all on Semaphore Road, a charming street running perpendicular to the beach, with awnings, stained glass on shop and café windows, and an old-fashioned cinema. On Sunday a steam train runs to Fort Glanville (Sept–May every third Sun 1–5pm; $5), at 359 Military Rd, the only complete example of the many forts built in Australia when fear of Russian invasion reached hysterical heights after the Crimean War in the mid-nineteenth century. To get to Semaphore by public transport, take a bus to Port Adelaide and then bus #333.

About 8km south of Semaphore, GRANGE is a charming beachside suburb, with a row of Victorian terraced houses facing the sands (bus #112 or #135 from Grenfell Street, 30min; Grange line train, 20min) and a popular pier with an upmarket kiosk. The next beach along is atmospheric HENLEY BEACH (Mon–Sat bus #137, Sun #130, both from Currie Street; 20min; #286 or #287 from North Terrace, 35min), where the focus is Henley Square opposite the long wooden pier.

The square is lined with classic Federation-style buildings housing several popular restaurants and cafés. Henley on Sea, a waterfront café around the corner, featured as Moby Dick’s in the film Shine. South of here, on the way to Glenelg, West Beach (#278 bus from Currie Street; 25min) is a rather soulless spot with a caravan park. It does have a good, long, sandy beach though.