New South Wales (Sydney Region)
Paramatta
Situated on the Parramatta River, a little over 20km upstream from the harbour mouth, Parramatta was the first of Sydney's rural satellites - the first farm settlement in Australia, in fact. The fertile soil of "Rosehill", as it was originally called, saved the fledgling colony from starvation with its first wheat crop of 1789. It's hard to believe today, but dotted here and there among the malls and busy roads are a few remnants from that time - eighteenth-century public buildings and original settlers' dwellings that warrant a visit if you're interested in Australian history.
You can call in to Parramatta on your way out of Sydney to the Blue Mountains - a rather depressing drive along the ugly and congested Parramatta Road - or endure the dreary thirty-minute suburban train ride from Central Station. But much the most enjoyable way to get here is on the sleek RiverCat ferry from Circular Quay up the Parramatta River (1hr; $5 one-way). The wharf at Parramatta is on Phillip Street, a couple of blocks away from the helpful Parramatta Visitors Centre on the corner of Church and Market streets (Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 9am-1pm, Sun 10.30am-3.30pm; tel 9630 3703), which hands out free walking maps.

Historic Houses
Parramatta's most important historic feature is the National Trust-owned Old Government House Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; last admission 3.30pm; $5) in Parramatta Park by the river. Turn left onto Marsden Street from the visitors centre, cross the river, then go right onto George Street. Entered through the 1885 gatehouse on O'Connell Street, the park - filled with native trees - rises up to the gracious old Georgian-style building, the oldest remaining public edifice in Australia. It was built between 1799 and 1816 and used as the viceregal residence until 1855; one wing has been converted into a pleasant teahouse. 

The three other main historic attractions are close together: from Parramatta Park, follow Macquarie Street and turn right at its end onto Harris Street. Running off here is Ruse Street, where the aptly named Experiment Farm Cottage Tues-Thurs 10am-4pm, Sun 11am-4pm; $5, free for National Trust members), at no. 9, was built on the site of the first land grant, given in 1790 to reformed convict James Ruse, a former Cornwall farmer who successfully raised wheat at a time when the colony was starving. Governor Phillip's "experiment" in giving land grants to convicts proved to be both an agricultural and social success. On parallel Alice Street, at no. 70, Elizabeth Farm (daily 10am-5pm; $6) dates from 1793 and claims to be the oldest surviving home in the country. The farm was built and run by the Macarthurs, who bred the first of the merino sheep that made Australian wealth "ride on a sheep's back"; a small café serves refreshments. Nearby Hambledon Cottage on Hassel Street (Wed, Thurs, Sat & Sun 11am-4pm; $3), built in 1824, was part of the Macarthur estate.

Lane Cove River
Some of Sydney's prettiest suburbs lie on the Lane Cove River which runs into the Parramatta River. Exclusive Hunters Hill and Woolwich, are found on a peninsula which looks something like a map of Italy - with the Parramatta River on its southern side and the Lane Cove River on its northern side. The impressive houses, with beautiful gardens and views over both rivers, provide the setting for an elegant stroll. The peninsula can be reached via ferry from Circular Quay to the Valentia Street Wharf in Woolwich near its tip. A great way to explore it is to take a bus (North And Western Buses; tel 9808 1000) up the hill to Hunters Hill and then wander back down Woolwich Road. Turn right off Woolwich Road at Elgin Street and follow it down into Clarke Road for Clarke Point Reserve with its lookout. On the first Sunday of the month, you might also like to drop in to look at an example of early Sydney domestic architecture, the tiny four-room Vienna Cottage, 38 Alexandra St, Hunters Hill (10am-4pm; $4), built in 1871 with an adjoining park and orchard.

As Lane Cove River meanders north from Hunters Hill, a valley of bushland between North Ryde and Chatswood is the Lane Cove National Park (tel 9412 1811) offering riverside walking tracks, a wildlife shelter and boat rental. You can camp or stay in en-suite cabins at an adjoining caravan park. To reach the park by public transport, take the train to Chatswood then bus #550 or #551; if you're driving, the park is accessed by Delhi Road, Lane Cove Road or Lady Game Drive.