The awe-inspiring Sydney Harbour Bridge has spanned the water dividing north and south Sydney since 1932. It's hard to imagine the view of the harbour without the castle-like sandstone pylons anchoring the bridge to the shore and the crisscross of steel arch against the sky.
At 503m, it was the longest single span arch bridge in the world when it was built. As the NSW Premier, J.T. Lang, of the Labor party, prepared to cut the ribbon, further excitement was provided by the dashing horseman and Royalist fanatic, Francis de Groot, who galloped up like a cavalryman and cut the opening ribbon with a saber declaring "I open this bridge in the name of the Majesty the King and all the decent citizens of NSW" in protest at Lang's Socialist leanings.
Residents of the north of England might find the bridge familiar: the much tinier Tyne Bridge in Newcastle-upon-Tyne, built in 1929, was the model for Sydney Harbour Bridge. Construction costs for the altogether huger Sydney project weren't paid off until 1988, and there'sstill a $2 toll to drive across, though, payable only when heading south; you can walk or cycle it for free. Pedestrians should head up the steps to the bridge from Cumberland Street, reached from The Rocks via the Argyle Steps off Argyle Street, and walk on the eastern side (the western side is the preserve of cyclists).
The bridge demands full-time maintenance, protected from rust by continuous painting in trademark steel-grey. One of Australia's best-known comedians, Paul Hogan of Crocodile Dundee fame, worked as a rigger on "the coathanger" before being rescued by a New Faces talent quest in the 1970s. To check out Hoge's vista, you can now follow a rigger's route and climb the bridge without getting arrested - once the favoured illegal occupation of drunken uni students. If you can't stomach (or afford) the climb, there's a lookout point actually inside the bridge's southern pylon where, as well as gazing out across the harbour, you can study a photo exhibition on the bridge's history. Lookout point daily 10am-5pm; $2; 5min walk from Cumberland St then 200 steps.
Climbing the bridge
The hour spent checking in and getting kitted up at the "Base" at 5 Cumberland St, The Rocks, makes you feel as if you're preparing to go into outer space, as do the grey Star Trek-style suits specially designed so that you blend in with the bridge - no colourful crawling ants to spoil ground-level views. It's really not as scary as it looks - there's no way you can fall off, fully harnessed as you are, and this can calm a normal fear of heights.
The only thing you're allowed to take up are your glasses, attached to your suit by special cords - everything from handkerchiefs to caps are provided and similarly attached. This precaution also means you can't take your camera with you. You do get one group photo on top of the bridge (free with the price of the climb), but the group - of jolly strangers, arms akimbo - crowds out the panoramic background. To get a good shot showing yourself with the splendours of the harbour behind, you'll need to fork out from $12.95 to $24.95 extra.