Like better-known Paddington, Balmain was once a working-class quarter of terraced houses that has gradually been renovated. The docks at White Bay are still important, though, and Balmain hasn't completely forsaken its roots, with a good mix of old, young and families. Darling Street rewards a leisurely stroll, with a bit of browsing in its speciality shops (focused on clothes and gifts), and grazing in its restaurants and cafés. It, and the surrounding backstreets, are also blessed with enough watering holes to warrant a pub crawl - two classics are the London Hotel on Darling Street and the Exchange Hotel on Beattie Street. The best time to come is on Saturday, when a lively market occupies the grounds of St Andrews Church on the corner opposite the London Hotel.
For long light, stunning sunsets and wow-worthy real estate, meander down the backstreets towards the spit of land called Birchgrove, where Louisa Road leads to Birchgrove Wharf. From here you can catch a ferry back to Circular Quay, or stay and relax in the small park on Yurulbin Point. Alternatively, the #441 bus can whisk you back into town.
