Take note that there is no fuel available at Silverton. If the scene looks vaguely familiar, you probably have seen it before: parts of Mad Max II were shot around here, and the Silverton Hotel (daily 8.30am–9.30pm, though they often close earlier) has appeared as the “Gamulla Hotel” in Razorback, the “Hotel Australia” in A Town Like Alice, and “Juanita’s Diner” in Fiddlers Green with Don Johnson. It also seems to star in just about every commercial – usually beer-related – that features an Outback scene. The stark impact of the pub, with barren, red earth stretching endlessly to the horizon, has been somewhat diminished by the greening of the desert, but it’s still the ultimate Outback image and a must for every photo collection. The pub has its own collection, the lower walls covered with snapshots from the various film shoots, the upper walls piled high with an assortment of beer cans and old bottles. In some ways it feels like a milk bar, with a fridge full of cold soft drinks, a tea urn, and the only available food some limp sandwiches, pies and pasties, rather than the usual counter meals. But in the tradition of all Outback pubs, it has its own in-jokes; you’ll find out what all the laughter is about if you ask to “take the test”.
Taking the Silverton Heritage Trail, a two-hour stroll around town marked by white arrows, is a good way to work up a thirst. But it’s far too hot to attempt in the summer, and is best undertaken during the cooler months. Along the way it’ll take you past the old Silverton School Craft Centre, and the 1889 vintage Silverton Gaol Museum (daily 9.30am–4.30pm; $2), with the usual collection of relics from pioneer days and Outback stations, plus mining equipment. There’s a burgeoning art scene here, too, with four galleries to browse through. Peter Browne’s Gallery (daily 9am–5pm), in an 1884 house on a hill, is worth a look for its uniquely original decoration and the humorous paintings of bush scenes, koala-shearing, kookaburras boiling the billy, and Browne’s trademark emus with huge, saucer-shaped eyes. Also interesting is Albert Woodcroffe’s and Bronwen Standley’s Horizon Gallery (daily 9am–6pm), opposite the pub. The husband and wife team paint in a similar style, creating their trademark horizon paintings, mainly in acrylics – finely detailed works that really capture the sense of space and the seemingly endless skyline.
One of the most enjoyable things to do while in Silverton is to go on a camel tour. The Cannard family who run the Silverton Camel Farm (tel 08/8088 5316), come from a long line of camel trainers and have forty working camels on their farm. They attend to the camels in every way, including making their leather saddles, breaking them in and pegging their noses. You can’t miss the camel farm on the way into Silverton, with the shapes of camels looming like desert mirages. You can exercise a whim and hop on for fifteen minutes ($5), or trot for an hour along the nearby creek ($20), but the best experience is the sunset trek (2hr; $40), a ride to the Mundi Mundi Plain to look at the setting sun and a return trip under the night stars accompanied by a pack of lively dogs. Longer safaris into the desert are also on offer, from one to three days ($80–270).
Beyond Silverton, the road continues a further 14km to the Umberumberka reservoir, Broken Hill’s only source of water until the Menindee Lakes Scheme was set up. There’s a signposted lookout area which makes a nice picnic spot. A few kilometres further on you reach the Mundi Mundi Plains Lookout. Here, the undulating plateau you have been driving across descends gradually to a vast plain, and on clear days you can see in the distance the blurred outline of the northern Flinders Ranges in South Australia. This spot is where, at the end of Mad Max II, Mel Gibson tipped the semi-trailer.
If you want to stay in Silverton, your only choice is to camp at Penrose Park, where there’s a shower, toilets and barbecue.