New South Wales (Southern NSW)

Now bypassed by the Hume Highway, GOULBURN is still the traditional stop-off point en route to Canberra. It’s a large regional centre for the surrounding area, and for a quality wool industry which was established in the 1820s. The town, with its wide streets, has a conservative country feel, but boasts city facilities and some large and impressive public buildings. Goulburn’s connection to sheep, and one kind in particular, is made obvious to the public with the Big Merino (daily 8am–8pm). Another of Australia’s unashamedly tacky “big things”, the fifteen-metre-high sheep proudly stands next to the Ampol service station on the Old Hume Highway; the first floor has a wool industry display, and on the third level you can look out over the town through the sheep’s eyes. 

To get closer to the real thing, head for the long-established Pelican Sheep Station on Braidwood Road, 10km south of town (tel 02/4821 4668, fax 4822 1179; booking essential for tours, price dependent on number of people; accommodation in bunkhouses $31–45, plus camping), which has been in the same family since 1827. Tours include a shearing demonstration and the chance to see some sheepdogs being put through their paces.

There are several historic places to visit in Goulburn, including the National Trust property Riversdale, an 1840 coaching inn on Maud Street (Fri, Sun and holidays 10am–4pm, at other times by appointment tel 02/4821 4741), but the most interesting is the Old Goulburn Brewery on Bungonia Road (daily tastings from 11am), which has been brewing traditional ales and stouts since 1836. Details of other old properties can be obtained from the Goulburn Visitors Centre, next to the very impressive 1887 courthouse and opposite the shady, flower-filled Belmore Park, on Montague Street (daily 9am–5pm; tel 02/4823 0492); they also have a list of accommodation.

The classic place to eat in Goulburn, obligatory when passing through on the way to Canberra, is the Paragon Café, at 174 Auburn St, open daily for lunch and dinner. A bastion of good, filling food – inexpensive breakfasts, great hamburgers, steaks, fish, veal, pasta and pizza – it’s been here for around fifty years and retains its 1940s-era fittings – it’s also licensed.

The most intriguing place to stay in the area is at the Yurt Farm, 20km out of town on Grabben Gullen Road. A yurt, in its original form, is a Mongolian round leather tent, and the concept was enthusiastically adopted and adapted by Californian New Agers. The ones here are mostly of wood and are portable prefab buildings in the Californian mould – solar-powered, naturally lit and wood-heated. Essentially a sheep property, the “yurt village” has several yurts, each with a different function, providing an educational centre for groups of children to help them become more self-sufficient and environmentally aware. If you want to stay, you must call in advance; if you don’t have your own transport, someone can pick you up.

Attractions

• Goulburn Regional Art Gallery
  Designed by Philip Cox Architects, the Goulburn Regional Art Gallery is one of the most impressive regional galleries in the state. The Gallery is located in the Goulburn Civic Centre and has its main entrance off Church Street. It presents a diverse programme of exhibitions covering a wide range of art and craft forms. It develops many of its own exhibitions, frequently incorporating into them the work of local artists and craftspeople. In addition, the gallery tours a number of its exhibitions throughout Eastern Australia. Gallery hours: Tuesday-Friday: 10.00am- 4.30pm, Saturday & Public. Holidays: 1.00pm - 4.00pm or by appointment

• The Big Merino
  The Big Merino, or the "World's Biggest Marino" is situated just west of Goulburn on the Old Hume Highway. It stands as a proud symbol of Goulburn as the Fine Wool Capital of the World. Comprising of three floors, the ground floor houses a gift and souvenir shop. The first floor contains a "History of Wool" static display where visitors can view the step-by-step processes of wool from shearing to the final product. The top floor is a lookout, through sheep's eyes, over Goulburn.
• The Bungonia State Recreation Area, 25km east of Goulburn, covers a rugged strip of the Southern Tablelands containing some of the deepest caves in Australia. The spectacular limestone Bungonia Gorge and the Shoalhaven River are two of its physical attractions.
• Wombeyan Caves
  Located 1 Hour North of Goulburn are these spectacular limestone caves. Guided and self guided adventure tours are available. Open every day from 8.30am, Phone: (048) 43 5976

Events

• Goulburn Lilac City Festival (October long weekend)
  View the beautiful gardens, see the Grand Parade, the Crowning of the Queen and the spectacular fireworks. Entertainment and Carnival in Belmore Park

Maps