New South Wales (Western NSW)
Coonabarabran
COONABARABRAN is a touristy little town on the Castlereagh River, 160km north of Dubbo via the Newell Highway, and 465km northwest of Sydney. People come here for bushwalking and climbing in the spectacular Warrumbungles, an ancient mountain range 35km to the west, to gaze at stars in the clear skies, and to bring their dinosaur-fixated children to look at giant tacky models of the prehistoric beasts.
By virtue of its proximity to the Siding Spring Observatory Complex (daily 9am–4pm; $5), perched high above the township on the edge of the Warrumbungle National Park, Coonabarabran considers itself the astronomy capital of Australia. The skies are exceptionally clear out here, due to the dry climate and a lack of pollution and population. The giant 3.9-metre optical telescope (one of the largest in the world) can be viewed close up from an observation gallery, and there’s an astronomy exhibition, complemented by hands-on exhibits and a video show. There’s no public transport here, but the school bus passes by – ask at the visitors centre. You can’t actually view the stars at Siding Spring, but the Skywatch Observatory (daily 2–10pm; book before dusk on tel 02/6842 2506) on Timor Road, 2km from town on the way to the Warrumbungles, has night viewing through its modern telescope, plus a planetarium and computer space-simulation programs.

More down-to-earth attractions are on offer at Crystal Kingdom on the Newell Highway just north of the town centre (daily 8am–5pm; $2), where there’s a display of Warrumbungle minerals including a sparkling crystal cave, and at Miniland theme park (daily 9am–5.30pm; $10), on the way to the Warrumbungles. The main attractions at the latter are the life-size animated dinosaurs, but there are also birds and animals, a playground with paddle boats and bumper cars, a mural of the Warrumbungles, and a fantasy Stone-Age trail through the complex.

Practicalities
Coonabarabran’s visitors centre on John Street (daily 9am–5pm; tel 02/6842 1441) has tourist information and can book accommodation and tours such as scenic flights over the Warrumbungles ($55 for 30min, minimum of two) and special visits to out-of-the-way places, including Aboriginal sites, with Coona Country Tours (from $80 per person).

Accommodation in the national park itself is limited to campsites, some of which have hot showers, electric barbecues and fireplaces (note that wood is not supplied, and there’s a fine for collecting it in the park), while others are more basic. Bookings aren’t necessary for any of the sites, but you will need to bring provisions. Between the park and Coonabarabran, the Warrumbungles Mountain Motel on Timor Road, 19km from town, is set in bushland on the Castlereagh River. Rooms have extra bunks and kitchens, so are good for families or small groups; there’s also a small saltwater pool and a playing field. 

Also along Timor Road (16km from town), nestled under Bulleamble Mountain, is the Tibuc farm, where self-contained cabins here vary from posh to extremely basic; there are reductions for longer stays. There are plenty of alternatives in town: the All Travellers Motor Inn on John Street, with air-conditioning and disabled-accessible rooms, or the Imperial Hotel and the Royal Hotel on the same street. Along the Oxley Highway you’ll find the Wayfarer Caravan Park and the shady John Oxley Caravan Park.

Good places to eat in town are all on John Street. The bright and airy Jolly Cauli, at no. 30, has a wide choice of dishes, delicious coffee and homemade cakes. The Lunch Box does inexpensive midday meals, the Imperial Hotel has the best counter meals, and the Golden Sea Dragon serves up reliable Chinese food.