Byron Bay

New South Wales (Northern NSW)

Byron Bay

This laid-back beach village has a marvellous mixture of cultures and lifestyles. The main pub, The Beach Hotel, is as hip as they come, having been recently rebuilt in earth-toned stucco brick and wood. For surfers, Byron's breaks are world class; and snorkelers and divers can explore a fascinating underwater world.

There's a choice of restaurants that traverse the culinary globe; you can indulge in a shiatsu massage, a tarot reading or take time out in a Tai Chi class. Byron is also the place to watch whales and dolphins cruising up the coast, and seen from Cape Byron the most easterly point on the Australian mainland.

Situated at the end of a long sweeping bay, the township of BYRON BAY boasts 30km of almost unbroken sandy beaches. Formerly a working-class coastal town of dilapidated weatherboard cottages, best known for its abattoir, it’s now a thriving resort, first discovered by the surfies, then the hippies and more recently by better-heeled travellers.

The New Age legacy lives on, and Byron Bay’s charms have not gone unnoticed in backpackers’ circles either, while in summer it can seem like Sydney-by-the-sea, as half of Paddington and Darlinghurst arrive en masse to escape the city. For the moment, however, it remains a special and enjoyable place – small, picturesque, with an oddball but equable local community and a splendidly scenic setting. The locals, despite being permanently outnumbered, seem far from overwhelmed. One of Byron’s charms is its lack of retail chain outlets; instead, small, often alternative, local businesses are the norm.

Alternative and artistic Byron Bay

Byron Bay offers a truly wide variety of alternative therapies, extensive browsing in New Age bookshops, a wealth of crystals, and a future foretold through palmistry and tarot readings – all underlaid with a good dose of capitalism as prices for massages and tarot readings are hiked up during the lucrative summer months. The alternative culture attracts artists and artisans in droves, and galleries and artists’ studios abound.

The Community Centre, at 69 Jonson St (tel 02/6685 6807; bbcc@mullum.com.au), opposite the train station, is hard to miss with its bright figurative mural, and has great notice boards packed with information on everything from Celtic Shamanism to Tibetan healing workshops. One of the best New Age emporiums is the Crystal Temple at 87 Jonson St, flogging crystals, books, tapes and jewellery. They also have a wide range of alternative therapies on offer. At the rear of the Belongil Beach House on Childe Street, the Relax Haven (tel 02/6685 8304) has a float tank (1hr float, $25) and massage available ($40 per hour); or the more central Samadhi Flotation Centre, 107 Jonson St (tel 02/6685 6905), offers the same, plus classes, workshops and a resident naturopath and homeopath. Quintessence, Shop 8, 11 Fletcher St (tel 02/6685 5533), offers aromatherapy massage and reflexology.

The Byron Bay market, held on the first Sunday of each month on Butler Street, behind the train station, is the best way to become acquainted with the arts and crafts of the area (if you miss it, there’s others at The Channon on the second Sunday, Mullumbimby on the third Saturday, Uki on the third Sunday and one at the showground at Bangalow, 13km southwest, on the fourth Sunday of each month). The Arts Factory, on Skinners Shoot Road, has several artists’ workshops which you can visit (Tues–Sun 10am–3pm), and the Byron Craft Market is held here every Saturday (8.30am–3pm) with a courtesy bus (9.30am–3.30pm) from the community centre on Jonson Street. The Epicentre, on Border Street, near Belongil Beach, has several outlets and resident artists and craftspeople, plus a large art gallery showing the work of local artists ($1 donation). Beyond here, northwest of town along Ewingsdale Road, Byron Bay Industrial Estate, between Banksia Drive and Acacia Street, has a host of artisans producing everything from leathergoods to hats; the most highly regarded creative talents here are the glassblowers at Colin Heaney’s Hot Glass Studio (gallery daily 10am–4pm, demonstrations Mon–Fri 9am–3pm). Back in town, one of the best alternative shops is Cat’s Recycled Emporium, Shop 1/3, Lawson St, which sells a mixture of clothes and art, most made locally – everything from groovy beach dresses to mobiles made of cutlery. Also check out Love Hemp, Shop 2, Byron Street, devoted entirely to hemp clothing.

Byron Bay is host to an Australian Writers’ Festival featuring established and budding writers, readings and signings during the last week of July; contact the Northern Rivers Writers’ Centre, PO Box II41, Lismore, NSW 2480 (tel 02/6622 3599, fax 6622 7035).

The Town and around

There’s plenty of opportunity to soak up local atmosphere – and the often bizarre mix of countercultures as surfie meets soap starlet meets hippie – simply by wandering the streets. Probably the best place to take it all in is on the first Sunday of each month at the market, on Butler Street behind the train station, a huge affair containing everything from leather handbags to organic veggies. If you want to explore, one of the first places to visit is the lighthouse on the rocky promontory of Cape Byron, where there’s a small nature reserve (8am–5.30pm). The cape includes the easternmost point of the Australian mainland and is a popular spot to greet the dawn, but don’t worry if you’re not an early riser – the views from the cape and the lighthouse reserve are fabulous anytime, and there’s an excellent circular walking track from the lighthouse. With a bit of luck you’ll see dolphins, who like to sport in the surf off the headland, humpback whales, which pass this way heading north to warmer waters in June or July and again on their return south in September or October, and maybe some sharks.

Main Beach in town is as good as any to swim from, and usually has relatively gentle surf. One reason why Byron Bay is so popular with surf freaks is because its beaches face in all directions, so there’s almost always one with a good swell; however, you can usually find somewhere for a calmer swim.

East of Main Beach, you can always find a spot to yourself on the less sheltered stretch of Belongil Beach, from where there’s sand virtually all the way to BRUNSWICK HEADS, a quieter, more family-oriented resort located between the mouth of the Brunswick River and Simpson’s Creek, with a long crescent of beach on the ocean side. The grassy riverfront area is a good spot for children, with several playgrounds and picnic areas. The attractive 1930s-style Brunswick Hotel has a popular beer garden facing the river, packed on Sunday afternoon when there’s free live music outdoors.

Back in the other direction, Main Beach curves round towards Cape Byron to become Clarkes Beach. This and neighbouring Wategos Beach – beautifully framed between two rocky spurs – face north, and they usually have the best surfing. On the far side of the cape, Tallow Beach extends towards the Broken Head Nature Reserve, 6km south of the town centre at Suffolk Park; there’s good surf at Tallow just around the cape at Cosy Corner, and also at Broken Head. From the car park here, a short stroll through rainforest leads to the secluded, nudist Kings Beach, one of several isolated stretches of sand out this way.

When you tire of lazing on the beach and admiring the sea from above, you can take your explorations one step further and head underwater. The diversity of marine life in the waters of Byron Bay make it second only to the Great Barrier Reef as a place to dive on the east coast. Tropical marine life and creatures from warm temperate seas mingle at the granite outcrop of Julian Rocks Aquatic Reserve, 3km offshore; by far the most popular spot here is the Cod Hole, an extensive underwater cave inhabited by large moray eels and other fish. Between April and June is the best time to dive, before the plankton bloom.

Cape Byron Lighthouse and Byron Bay Reserve

Brightest coastal beacon and easternmost point of the continent. Open: 8-5.30 daily (grounds only). Admission: No Charge

Tours from Byron Bay

There are many tours to the rainforest, waterfalls and national parks in the hinterland around Byron Bay. All tours and activities can be booked at Byron Bus & Backpacker Centre, next to the tourist office (daily 7am–midnight; tel 02/6685 5517). Below are listed some of the more specialist and unusual tour operators.

Byron Bay Dreamtime Journey (tel 02/6680 8505). Aboriginal cultural experience run by local indigenous people. Cave and waterfall tours with bush tucker tastings, $49; didjeridoo-making workshops and lessons from $100.
Byron Bay Motorcycle Tours (tel 02/6685 6304). Whizz around the beaches and hinterland on the back of a Harley Davidson (30min for $35, half-day for $155; summer only).
Byron Bay Sea Kayaks (tel 02/6685 5830). Dolphin-watching from sea level in 2-person boats ($30 including breakfast or afternoon tea).
Byron Beach Rider (tel 02/6684 7499). Horseback jaunts on isolated beaches in the Byron area (daily; 2hr tours from $40).
Excellent Adventures (tel 02/6687 1092). One-day canoe safaris on the Brunswick River, from Mullumbimby to Brunswick Heads, with opportunities to see plenty of birdlife ($50, including picnic lunch).
Jim’s Alternative Tours (tel 02/6685 7720). Tours aimed at presenting a positive, accurate portrayal of the hinterland “back to the land” movement. The “Big Wet” tour visits Nimbin, and Holy Goat Ranch, one of Australia’s best examples of permaculture, then takes in Protestors Falls and Minyon Falls, with opportunities for swimming ($30). It can also help transport you to the Sunday markets at The Channon ($10) and Bangalow ($5), with more flexible times than other operators.
Mick’s Bay to Bush Tours (tel 02/6684 0253 or 018/662 684). The longest-established of Byron Bay’s alternative tours, with a bit of a personal touch: the popular Rainbow Trip, taking in Nimbin and Minyon Falls, also visits Mick’s dad’s house for tea and muffins (Mon, Wed & Fri 9am–6pm; $30). Plus a Nimbin & Bush Day Out (Tues, Thurs & Sat 9am–6pm; $30), commune tour and transport to north coast markets.
Rapid Rafting (tel 02/6685 8687) and Whitewater Rafting (tel 02/6685 4469). Two-day white-water rafting on the Gwydir River (grade 4 & 5) with overnight camping in the hinterland. Departs daily, depending on the weather at 10am, returns 8pm following day ($109).

Getting there and around

If you come by train, you’ll arrive right in the heart of town on Jonson Street, the main thoroughfare. Not all north coast buses stop at Byron Bay; however, those that do will also drop you here, or else a little way north near the junction of Jonson and Lawson streets. The closest airports are at Ballina, 39km south (from where you can get a bus connection with Kirklands), or Coolangatta, 109km north in Queensland; Byron Bay Connection buses link up with both airports (tel 02/6685 5980; Ballina from $20, Coolangatta from $50).

Check out the helpful Byron Bay Tourist Information Centre, staffed by volunteers at 80 Jonson St, next to the train station (daily 9am–5pm; tel 02/6685 8050). You’ll be able to pick up an excellent range of printed information here about accommodation (free booking service), eating, national parks, scenic drives, sights, activities and tours. A Disabled Access Guide is also available. An alternative for information is the recently renovated Byron Bus & Backpacker Centre, next to the information centre (daily 7am–midnight; tel 02/6685 5517), which books tours, activities, accommodation, bus tickets, car rental and arranges freight.

Eating

There’s a multitude of places selling food in Byron Bay, and the standard is generally pretty high. A café society exists, although cafés don’t usually stay open late – even in summer. Lots of alternative cafés offer delicious health foods and vegetarian dishes, and there are plenty of takeaways and fish-and-chip shops, as well as restaurants that serve everything from Japanese to Indian. All have extended opening hours in the peak summer period.

Athena Taverna, Lawson St (tel 02/6685 6810). A very popular Greek restaurant, with casual atmosphere and tables outside. Moderate prices. BYO. Tues–Sat 6.30–10pm.
Bay Kebabs, corner of Jonson and Lawson streets. Generous falafel rolls and gourmet kebabs are the thing to have here. Eat sitting on the stools inside, or take away. Daily 10am until late.
The Beach Café, Clarkes Beach (dinner reservations tel 02/6685 7598). The best place for breakfast, from 7.30am. Serves dinner in the summer.
Belongil Beach Café, Childe St, next to Belongil Beach House. Another great oceanfront place for breakfast, lunch and dinner, though the sea view is behind beachfront bush. There are outside tables, where customers are sometimes serenaded by free music. BYO. Daily 8am–9pm.
Byron Thai, 32 Lawson St (tel 02/6685 8453). Excellent Thai restaurant with a palm-garden dining area. Loads of choice for vegetarians. Moderate prices. Licensed. Dinner daily from 5.30pm.
The Byronian, 58 Jonson St. This café, frequented by locals, has a lively atmosphere with lots of chat over good coffee. An attractive front courtyard next to a green park. Early, good-value breakfasts. BYO. Daily 7.30am–5.30pm.
Cocomangas, 32 Jonson St (tel 02/6685 8493). Philippines-inspired restaurant which turns into a dance spot with theme nights after dark (Mon is 70s night). Mon–Sat 6pm–3am.
Earth ‘n’ Sea Pizzas, corner of Lawson and Jonson streets. A favourite place to eat in Byron. Toppings are unusual and imaginative: try “Mullumbimby Madness”, with mushrooms, of course. Generous and affordable pasta. BYO and licensed. Daily from 5.30pm; $10 all-you-can-eat special on Wednesday nights.
Ginelli Ristorante Italiano, 36 Jonson St (tel 02/6684 7179). Pricey pasta and à la carte; good for a splurge. Thurs–Sun 6–10pm.
Koo Café, Marvell St (tel 02/6685 5711; koocafé@om.com.au). This relaxed little place is one of the best cafés in the centre, and probably the cheapest, with a terminal to surf the Internet and outside tables where you can enjoy your food. The menu includes Italian sandwiches and lasagne, and the coffee is good. Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 8am–3pm.
Lightwork Café, 50 Jonson St. Café catering for locals with hearty breakfasts as well as snacks and cakes at outdoor courtyard tables. Licensed. Mon–Sat 8.30am–5pm, Sun (market day) 9am–5pm.
Misaki Byron, 11 Fletcher St (tel 02/6685 7966). An excellent Japanese restaurant, in a pleasant brick courtyard, serving everything from sushi to noodles. Expensive, but BYO; bookings required. Tues–Sat 6–10pm, daily during school holidays.
Oh! Delhi, Bay Centre Arcade, upstairs, 6 Lawson St (tel 02/6685 6251). Byron’s best curry house and takeaway. BYO and licensed. Nightly dinner, with live Indian music and belly-dancing Thurs, Fri & Sat.
The Piggery Supernatural Food, Arts Factory, Skinners Shoot Rd. Don’t be fooled by the name – this is a popular vegetarian place in a spacious setting, retaining the open rafters of the building’s early days as – ironically – a meatworks. BYO. Nightly dinner.
Ringo’s, 29 Jonson St. One of Byron’s most popular cafés, with probably the cheapest food in town. Serves everything from simple salad sandwiches to lasagne or curry, with lots of vegetarian options. There’s a notice board advertising events around town, and a secondhand bookshop out back. BYO. Daily 8.30am–9pm.
Strictly Vego, The Plaza, Jonson St. Attached to The Car Park nightclub, but with its own separate identity. Has a delectable smorgasbord of fresh, meatless cuisine – fill your own plate for around $7, or fill your face for a tenner. Leafy courtyard too. Daily noon–9pm.
Thai Noodle Bar, 24 Jonson St. Moderately-priced fresh noodles wok-fried; you select the fresh ingredients. Also Malaysian-style laksa (noodle soup). Good selection of vegetarian dishes. Small bar-style eating area, but primarily a takeaway place. Mon–Sat 10am–6pm.
Toscani’s Ristorante, corner of Jonson and Marvell streets (tel 02/6685 7320). A sophisticated Italian restaurant in an architecturally innovative building. Doubles as a café, with every imaginable kind of Italian coffee. Expensive, though there are coffee and cake specials. Licensed; noon–midnight. Live music on Wed; closed Sun.

Entertainment and Nightlife

The weekly free community newspaper, The Byron Shire Echo, has a comprehensive gig guide. There’s plenty of activity in summer: New Year’s Eve is such a big event that the council has taken to closing the town off – so come early. The huge outdoor Annual Byron Bay Arts and Music Festival is normally held for three days in early January but may be moving to February; it takes over Belongil Fields with several stages, a rave field, an all-night cinema, a food fair, market stalls and workshops; to find out exact dates, call the tourist information centre (tel 02/6685 5980). Tickets can be bought in advance from independent record outlets around Australia.

Beach Hotel, corner of Jonson and Bay streets (tel 02/6685 6402). Owned by John Cornell, who played Paul Hogan’s sidekick in a 1970s Australian comedy series, this big and smart pub is superbly sited right opposite Main Beach with a huge terrace beer garden, bistro and restaurant, and attracts a cross-section of locals. Live music (often free), including jazz sessions on Sunday afternoon.
The Car Park, The Plaza, Jonson St (tel 02/6685 6170). Late-night techno dance club – Byron’s best.
Chincogan Tavern, Burringbar St, Mullumbimby (tel 02/6684 1550). Bands on Friday night.
The Epicentre, Border St, Belongil Beach (tel 02/6685 6789). A multipurpose performance space hosting everything from dance parties, comedy festivals and Aboriginal dance troupes to international and Australian musicians and singers, plus visiting gurus. This is a non-smoking venue and many, though not all, of the gigs are alcohol-free.
Great Northern Hotel, Jonson St (tel 02/6685 6454). Something for everyone: a front room with pool tables, a typically blokish public bar and The Backroom, a large stylish space that doubles as an Italian restaurant and a music venue with big-name Australian bands playing three or four times a week. Open till 1am nightly.
Pighouse Flicks, Old Piggery, Skinners Shoot Rd (tel 02/6685 5828). “The Byron Cinema Experience” shows a hand-picked bill of latest-release films with the emphasis on the quirky and the first-rate, with two to three films nightly and deck chairs or sofas for seating. The price is $7.50 per film with a discount if you eat first at their great vegetarian restaurant.
Railway Friendly Bar, next to the train station, Jonson St (tel 02/6685 7662). A small pub that’s a popular and noisy haunt of locals and travellers alike. It has quaint train-carriage decor, great counter meals, a beer garden, and free live music nightly 6.30–9.30pm.

Accommodation

There are plenty of places to stay in Byron Bay, but that doesn’t mean it’s easy to find a bed. During December and January especially, demand for accommodation in all categories far exceeds supply, and it’s essential to book well in advance. A1 Accommodation, 69 Jonson St (tel 02/6685 7523), will make bookings for all accommodation free of charge. The hostels in Byron Bay are among the best in Australia, but prices rise dramatically in summer; if you’re part of a group, holiday apartments (booked through A1 Accommodation and real estate agents in town) might be a more practical option. If all places in town are full, you may strike it lucky in the surrounding area –either towards Brunswick Heads, about 18km further up the coast, or in the quiet town of Mullumbimby, just inland at the foot of Mount Chincogan on the Brunswick River.

Beach Hotel, corner of Jonson and Bay streets. Brand-new luxury waterfront hotel. Spacious, tasteful units with patios or balconies. Outdoor heated pool and spa set among greenery.
Byron Bay Beach Club, Bayshore Drive, 3km north. Lovely complex of serviced wooden chalets with self-contained cooking facilities and TV. The resort-style extras include a pool, bar, restaurant, tennis courts and golf course.
Clarkes Beach Caravan Park, off Lighthouse Rd. Only 1km west of town, and right on the beach.
Ferry Reserve Caravan Park, Pacific Highway, Brunswick Heads. Pleasant campsite near the river, with a kiosk and barbecue.
Maca’s Camping Ground, Main Arm Rd, near Mullumbimby. Campsite in the bush. Communal kitchen and dining room, plus laundry; tents for rent.
Lord Byron Resort Motel, 120 Jonson St. Central location, with amenities including a swimming pool, spa, sauna and tennis court. All units air-con. Some serviced apartments available (with fans only).
Suffolk Park Caravan Park, Alcorn St, Suffolk Park, 5km south. Good location in a shady setting on Tallow Beach.
Sunseeker Motel, 100 Bangalow Rd, 1.5km south. Cottage-style motel units with balconies or verandahs. Saltwater pool, playground and barbecue. All units sleep six and have limited cooking facilities. Close to Tallow Beach.
The Wheel Resort, Broken Head Rd, Suffolk Park, 3.5km south, opposite the golf course. A prize-winning resort designed to be totally accessible to people with disabilities. Private one- or two-room cabins, fully equipped (linen is provided), with verandah and TV. There’s a swimming pool with ramp. Set in a rainforest with easy access to the beach.

Events

Byron Bay Arts and Music Festival in January
East Coast Blues Festival in April