New South Wales (Northern NSW)

The old port of BALLINA experienced a short-lived goldrush in the 1880s, but it has few reminders of this era and is now mostly a holiday town, with some pleasant beaches and the opportunity to take river trips to Lismore and other destinations. Neither has it escaped the clutches of the “big things”, with the giant prawn marking the entrance to town, just off the highway from Grafton.

There’s a cycling and walking track (20min walk) from the centre of town along the sea wall to the beach. In Las Balsas Plaza, on River Street, is a small maritime museum (daily 9am–4pm; free), whose exhibits include the Atzlan, a balsa raft that made it across the Pacific from Ecuador in 1973 as part of the Thor Heyerdahl-inspired Las Balsas expedition.

Accommodation includes the Ballina Travellers Lodge Motel, 36–38 Tamar St, with a YHA hostel section; it’s modern and family-run, with a swimming pool and free use of bicycles, fishing rods, surf- and boogie-boards. Ballina Gardens Caravan Park, 3km north on the Pacific Highway, also has a pool and is one of the better places to camp. If you have a car, though, the prime spot to pitch a tent is at Flat Rock Camping Ground, on the Coast Road 5km east of Ballina; right on the beach, this unspoilt site is for tents only and there’s no electricity, so it’s very peaceful – hot showers supply a touch of comfort.

Ballina has quite a lively summer nightlife: the Henry Rous Tavern, on River Street, has a popular café and hosts occasional bands, while the Australian Hotel, on the corner of Cherry and River streets, is more sedate, with jazz, piano music and a pleasant beer garden. Both pubs have recommended bistros, while Ripples at the El Rancho Motor Inn, on the corner of Fox and Cherry streets (tel 02/6686 3333; licensed; closed Sun), serves up seafood, crocodile and other native critters. There’s also Mexican del Rio at 196 River St (tel 02/6686 2775; licensed), and the adjacent Ping Sun Chinese Restaurant (tel 02/6686 3292). The best place for brunch is Shellys on the Beach at Shelly Beach, for great ocean views and healthy, creative cooking; follow the bridge and sea wall 2km out of town.

Ballina is connected by the long-distance Kirklands bus (tel 02/6622 1499) to Brisbane via Lismore, Lennox Head and Evans Head. Local services include Blanch’s (tel 02/6686 2144) to and from the airport east of town, and to Lennox Head, Byron Bay and Mullumbimby. To get around, you can rent a bike from Jack Ransom Cycles, 16 Cherry St (tel 02/6686 2180); rental cars are available from North Coast Rent-a-Car (tel 02/6686 9966).

Bundjalung National Park