Korea (South)
Travellers Information
Visas: With an onward ticket visitors from almost anywhere - except countries not recognised by South Korea (Cuba, Laos & Cambodia) - can stay in the country for 30 days without a visa. If you're from Western Europe or Canada, you can get up to 90 days visa-free. Everyone else has to extend after their first 30 days. Extensions last for around 90 days, and if you know you're going to need one it's worth getting it before you leave home.
Health risks: no particular risks, but you should consider vaccinations for hepatitis, typhoid, polio, tetanus & diphtheria
Time: GMT/UTC plus nine hours
Electricity: 110/220V, 60 Hz
Weights & measures:metric

When to go

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If you possibly can, time your visit to South Korea for autumn (September to November). It's sunny, the skies are blue, and Korea's spectacular autumn foliage is a real drawcard. Winter is cold but dry, and a good time to visit if you like skiing, snow-draped temples, a dearth of tourists and crisp (ie below freezing) weather. Spring (April to May) can be beautiful, but it's also the most popular time with Japanese tourists and you'll have trouble getting mid to top-end accommodation. Summer is hot, muggy, crowded, wet, typhoon-prone and expensive.

Getting There

South Korea is now a stopover for a number of international carriers. Most of them used to land at Kimp'o Airport in Seoul, but in March a new international airport opened at Incheon, 60km from the capital. Although there are international airports in Pusan Chejudo, they only have flights to and from Japan and China. All departure tax is to be paid in won and costs in the vicinity of US$8.
Ferries run from Pusan to Shimonoseki and Hakata in Japan, or you can get a combined train-ferry ticket that will take you from Seoul to Osaka. Ferries to Weihai, Qingdao and Tianjin in China go from Inch'on. If you want to sit on a boat for 46 hours, a ferry runs from Pusan to Vladivostok in Russia. You can forget about entering South Korea by land.

Getting Around

All South Korea's main cities are linked by air, but the distances are small so it's usually not worth the extra cost. Besides, land travel in Korea is a dream come true: buses are fast, frequent, safe and on time; the train network is extensive and trains are frequent. There are two bus classes - kosok (express) and chikheng (ordinary) - and seats are unreserved. Trains have reserved seats, but don't go to as many places as buses. Long-distance share taxis, known as bullet taxis, go between big cities and major tourist sights. They're not metred and you'll need to negotiate a price before you set off.

Taxis are a common form of transport though it's not always easy to find one unless starting from a hotel. Normally passengers share the one taxi, so if you feel confident find a street corner where you see others trying to hail a taxi and shout your destination. A fleet of higher class call taxis also operate in Seoul and Pusan. These can be booked by phone or hailed in the street and cost more than standard taxis.

Buses are two grades: standard and mini-bus size. The suburban rail system in the capital and an extensive subway system are excellent and there are lines past the Toksu Palace in the centre of town, eastwards to Tongdaemun (Great East Gate) and south past Namdaemun (Great West Gate). An extensive railway network links the country and express trains run almost hourly in both directions on the Seoul-Pusan line. Express trains also travel to Chinju, Kwangiu, Mokpo, Yosu and Changhang at least once every day.

Ferries sail the southern waters between Pusan and Chejudo Island and between Mokpo and Chejudo Island. A hydrofoil runs between Pusan and Yosu calling at Chungmu on the way. The domestic airline, KAL, flies to 15 cities and Asiana Airlines to 12 cities including Pusan and Cheju.

Climate

Korea has four distinct seasons. Spring begins in late March to May with occasional drizzle. Summer is hot and rainy with rainfall mainly in July and August. Autumn is short from the end of September to November and is dry and pleasant and the winter is cold and dry from December to March.  See also next weeks weather forcast for Seoel.

Clothing

Dress according to the season in which you visit. Winter needs woollens and coats, Spring and Autumn are crisp in the evening and require some warm clothing, while in summer you need very light cotton clothes. In the mountains take along special clothing suitable for cold wet conditions.  

Shopping

There are many shops and department stores stocking everything from traditional art and handicrafts to state-of-the-art electronic merchandise.

Seoul offers the widest possible variety of goods from sports equipment, suitcases and handbags, to jewellery, particularly semi-precious stones such as amethyst and smoky topaz, watches and accessories and native products such as lacquerware, dolls, fans, kites, paper masks, embroidery and traditional macrame. These are sold from duty-free stores, arcades with specialised shops, shopping districts and outdoor markets such as the Namdaemun Market or the It'aewon shopping area market.  

All major cities have souvenir shops and arcades where in some cases local specialities are sold at lower prices because you can watch them being produced. Prices are marked, but some bargaining is possible. The best buys include bamboo ware which is some of the best in the world, and high quality clothing items such as leathergoods and furs which can be custom-made at very low prices.

Ginseng, world renowned as a health elixir, is produced in the mountainous areas of Kangwon-do, Ch'ungch'ong-do and Cholla-do provinces and is very cheap in Korea.

Events

On Sokchonje (held in March and September), crowds gather at Confucian shrines to hear traditional court orchestras and watch costumed rituals. The best place to see this ceremony is at Sungkyunkwan University in Seoul. Lantern parades are held for Buddha's Birthday, celebrated in late April or early May. The most important of Korea's lunar holidays is the Harvest Moon Festival, which falls in early September. Cities throughout the country empty as people return to their family homes to pay homage to their ancestors. Around September the National Folk Arts Festival showcases Korean culture.

Holidays & Festivals

  • Feb 7-9 - Lunar New Year's day

  • Apr 1-10 - Cherry Blossom Festival (Chinhae Kyongnam)

  • April 7 - Chindo Youngdung Festival (Chindo Island)

  • May 14 - Buddha's Birthday

  • Jun 7-11 - Kangnung Kangwondo

  • Jul 17 - Constitution Day

  • Aug 15 - Liberation Day

  • Sep 15-17 - Chusok - Korean Thanksgiving Day

  • Oct 3 - National Foundation Day

  • Oct 9-12 - Paeckje Cultural Festival (Kongju Chungnam)

  • Oct '98 - Shilla Cultural Festival (Kyongju Kyongbuk)

  • Oct 4-12 - Halla Cultural Festival (Cheju Chejudo)

Activities

South Korea is very much a get-out-in-the-open-air-and-exert-yourself destination. The mountains, national parks and rugged islands all lend themselves to hiking and mountain biking, although wherever you go there will be plenty of other people with the same idea. There are also a few mountains good for skiing - try Yongpyong on the east coast or the Alps Ski Resort near Soraksan National Park. The season is from December to March. If golf is your game, Korea has what you're after. There are over 60 courses throughout the country, but keep in mind that some of them have been created at the expense of beautiful natural landscapes. Indoor activities are also popular in South Korea - try your hand at billiards, hot spring soaking or taekwondo, Korea's national martial art.

Koreans are avid sport fans and hold many unique and interesting traditional folk games and sports which have been passed down from ancient times. T'aekwondo originated in Korea and is now practised all over the world.

Ssirum is another traditional sport which begins with each man grasping the string or sapba that is tied around his opponent's waist. The one who throws the other to the ground using his power and skill wins.

Archery and kite flying are popular, as are Kune-Ttwigi (Korean swing), Nol-Ttwigi (Korean see-saw), Yut-Nori (four-stick game) and Paduk, the Korean equivalent of the Japanese game, 'Go' which has been played since the Three Kingdoms period.

For visitors wanting to participate in sports, there are more than 70 excellent golf courses on which to play, nine good ski resorts within four or five hours of Seoul, hunting from November to February on Chejudo and Kojedo Islands, fishing throughout the year in the sea or on lakes and reservoirs, and a range of watersports year-round on the south coast. Chejudo Island is the best place for scuba diving and sailing. Best times for watersports are June to November.