Japan
Visitors Information
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There are flights to Japan from all over the world, usually to Tokyo but also to a number of other Japanese airports. Consider arriving elsewhere than in Tokyo's impersonal Narita airport - it can be an unpleasant and tedious introduction to Japan. Kansai international airport charges a US$25 departure tax, Tokyo's Narita airport US$20, while the other international airports charge no departure tax at all.

There are a few sea transportation options between Japan and South Korea. The cheapest is the Shimonoseki-Pusan ferry which runs nightly across the Sea of Japan in both directions. Between Fukuoka and Pusan there's both an ultra-fast (3 hours) hydrofoil and a ferry (15 hours). To China, there are ferries connecting Shanghai to Osaka, Kobe and Nagasaki; there's also a weekly ferry from Kobe to Tanggu (near Tianjin). To Taiwan, a weekly ferry leaves from Okinawa. For travellers intending to take the Trans-Siberian Railway to Moscow, there's a weekly ferry service between Yokohama and the Russian port of Nakhoda near Vladivostok.

Getting Around
Flying is an efficient way to travel from the main islands to any of the small islands, and is often not much more expensive than going by rail. Check whether you qualify for discounts - there are some weird and wonderful ones (for example JAL offers discounts for three or more women travelling together, or for a husband and wife if their combined age totals 88 or more). Train is the way to travel in Japan. The trains are fast, frequent, clean, comfortable and often very expensive. Services range from small local lines to the shinkansen super-expresses, or 'bullet trains', which have become a symbol of modern Japan. Shinkansen reach speeds of up to 270km/h (167mi/h), are spookily efficient and can be travelled on with one of Japan's few travel bargains, the Rail Pass. Rail Passes must be pre-purchased overseas and are valid for almost all Japan Rail services. Intercity buses are generally slower than trains, but they are markedly cheaper. Also, unless you've got a sleeper, travelling overnight in a reclining bus seat can be preferable to sitting upright on the train.

Driving in Japan is much more feasible than it's normally made out to be. You wouldn't want to get behind the wheel in Tokyo, but in other urban centres the roads are fairly well signposted in English, other drivers are mostly considerate and cautious, petrol is no more expensive than it is in Europe (which means it's about three times the price it is in the US), and parking is not as difficult to find as popular mythology suggests. Motorcycling can be a great way of getting around Japan; 50cc 'step-thrus' are often available for local sightseeing, and you don't need a motorbike licence to drive one. Traffic in Japan moves on the left.

Exploring Japan by bicycle is perfectly feasible. The secret of enjoyable touring is to get off the busy main highways and onto the minor routes. Ferries are an excellent way of seeing parts of Japan you might otherwise miss. The densest network of ferry routes connects Kyushu, Shikoku and the southern coast of Western Honshu, across the waters of the Inland Sea. Ferries also connect the mainland islands with the many smaller islands off the coast and those dotted down to Okinawa and beyond to Taiwan.

Local transport is generally efficient. The largest cities have subway systems, which are the fastest and most convenient way to get around. Almost every Japanese city will have a bus service, but many foreigners find buses difficult to use. Trams, which operate in a number of cities, are easier to negotiate. Taxis are convenient but (quelle surprise) expensive.

When to go

Spring (March to May), with its clear skies and cherry blossoms, is probably the most celebrated Japanese season, but it's a holiday period for the Japanese and many of the more popular travel destinations tend to be flooded with domestic tourists. Autumn (September to November) is a great time to travel: the temperatures are pleasant, and the autumn colours in the countryside are fantastic. Mid-winter (December to February) can be bitterly cold, while the sticky summer months (June to August) can turn even the briefest excursion out of the air conditioning into a soup bath; on the plus side, major tourist attractions will generally be quieter at these times of the year. It's also worth considering peak holiday seasons when you plan your trip. Moving around and finding accommodation during New Year, Golden Week (late April to early May) and the midsummer O-Bon festival can be a real headache. See also next weeks weather forcast for Tokyo and Osaka.

Money & Costs

Japan is probably the most expensive country in the world for travel, but there are ways of keeping the outlays to an almost bearable level. A skeleton daily budget, assuming you stay in the cheapest hostels, eat modestly and travel short distances, would work out to US$60. Add about US$10 for extras like snacks, drinks, admission fees and entertainment. Staying in Japanese style B&Bs (inns) or business hotels and eating in pricey restaurants can easily have the ticker tipping US$100. Long-distance travel is a real budget buster in Japan - if you intend to travel widely in a short space of time, it's well worth investing in a Japan Rail Pass. At the other end of the spectrum, high rollers will have no problems off-loading their cash. Japan specialises in establishments catering to the ostentatious flattery of business accounts - the higher the bill, the greater the prestige of the guests.

Cash is still king in Japan, although the use of credit cards is pretty widespread in major cities. The Japanese are used to a very low crime rate and often carry wads of cash for the almost sacred ritual of cash payment. Foreign travellers can safely copy the cash habit, but should still take the usual precautions. You can change cash or travellers' cheques at an 'Authorised Foreign Exchange Bank' or at major post offices and some of the large hotels and stores. US dollars are preferred; trying to exchange Taiwanese or Korean currency is a fruitless task. The majority of ATMs do not accept foreign-issued credit cards. Look out for the Cirrus or Plus logos or check with your card company before departure.

There is little tipping or bargaining in Japan. If you want to show your gratitude to someone, give them a gift rather than a tip. Bargaining is largely restricted to discount electronics districts where a polite request will often bring the price down by around 10%.

Meals
  • Budget: US$5-8
  • Mid-range: US$8-25
  • Top-end: US$25 and upwards

Activities

Many of Japan's national parks have hiking routes. Around Tokyo, the popular hiking areas are Nikko and Chichibu-Tama National Park. There are good but isolated hikes in Gumma prefecture and in the Kansai region of Nara. To experience a Japan that few foreigners see, head for the mountainous, less populated Central Alps. Skiing is normally possible from December to April. The majority of resorts are on the island of Honshu, but there's also great powder skiing on Hokkaido. The Okinawan islands in the far south-west of Japan are popular diving destinations. Cycling is most popular in the less hilly coastal regions, although intrepid cyclists have been known to ride up Mt Fuji! Golf equals prestige in Japan. If you want to set foot on a green, a fat wallet and corporate clout are handy assets. Green fees usually start at around US$100 a day.

Events

Expect a total sell-out for travel and lodging during Japan's biggest holidays, New Year (29 December to 6 January) and Golden Week (the lumping together of Green Day, Constitution Day and Children's Day from 27 April to 6 May). Other festivals include Adult's Day, or Lucky Monday (second Monday in January), when ceremonies are held for boys and girls who have reached the age of majority (20). The Japanese celebrate the end of winter in association with Adult's Day by indulging in bean throwing while chanting 'in with good fortune, out with the devils'. Hanami (Blossom Viewing) usually runs from February to April; the romantic Tanabata Matsuri (Star Festival) is on 7 July; and O Bon (Festival of the Dead), when lanterns are floated on rivers, lakes or the sea to signify the return of the departed to the underworld, takes place in mid-July and August.

Kyoto's Gion Matsuri (17 July) is perhaps the most renowned of all Japanese festivals. The climax is a parade of massive man-dragged floats decked out in incredible finery, harking back to a 9th century request to the gods to end a plague sweeping the city. In the cute and kooky department, Niramekko Obisha (20 January; Chiba) combines a staring contest with consumption of sake - the one with the straightest face wins. The Yah-Yah Matsuri (first Sunday to the following Saturday of February; Owase) is an argument contest: competitors scream Samurai chants and try to look fearsome. Afterwards, they take off all their clothes and jump in the ocean.Knickers Giving Day (14 March) is a bizarre follow up to Valentine's Day - men are supposed to give a gift of panties to their lady.

Factsheet:

  • Climate: Japan has four distinct seasons. Temperatures are extreme, ranging from above 30 degrees celsius to well below zero. This variation explains the difference in climate between the Japan Sea coast and the Pacific coast. Summer on the Pacific coast is hot and humid, winter is cold and dry. Summer on the Japan Sea coast is dry while winter brings heavy snowfalls to the slopes and ranges. Spring and autumn are the best times to travel.

  • Clothing: Light clothes in summer in the hot, humid main cities along the Honshu Pacific coast. Heavy winter clothes in the mountains and in winter. Slip on shoes come in handy if you plan to stay in ryokan (inns) or visit shrines and temples.

  • Electricity: 100 volts AC, 50 cycles in Eastern Japan including Tokyo and 60 in Western Japan including Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka. Major hotels have both 110 and 220 volt outlets.

  • Time Zone: AEST less 1 hour; GMT plus 9 hours.

  • Currency: The yen.

  • Tipping: Not necessary.

  • Visas: Passport required. Australians require a visa. For other countries it depends on whether you are planning to engage in business activities.

  • Medical Requirements: No innoculations needed.
  • National Holidays:
    • January 1: New Year's Day (Only January 1 is a legal holiday, but government offices and corporations are closed from around December 29 through January 3, depending on the day of the week New Year's Day falls on.)
    • January 8: Coming of Age Day
    • February 11: Foundation Day
    • February 12: Public Holiday
    • March 20: Vernal Equinox
    • April 29: Greenery Day
    • April 30: Public Holiday
    • May 3: Constitution Day
    • May 4: Public Holiday
    • May 5: Children's Day (This period from April 29 through May 5 is popularly called "Golden Week" because there are 4 public holidays in the space of a week. Most Japanese take a long break at this time to travel both within Japan and abroad.)
    • July 20: Marine Day
    • September 15: Respect for the Aged Day
    • September 23: Autumn Equinox
    • September 24: Public Holiday
    • October 8: Health/Sports Day
    • November 3: Culture Day
    • November 23: Labor Thanksgiving Day
    • December 23: Emperor's Birthday
    • December 24: Public Holiday

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