Shikoku developed as a major trade and communications link of the old empire and as such allowed its people to keep a finger on the pulse of innovation, though most chose to remain traditional and aloof from modern trappings. The island's native sons provided some of the most skilled seafarers of feudal times, with the boldest turning to piracy, using Shikoku's remote coves and harbors as their home bases.

Overview
It's hard to imagine that Shikoku has a population smaller than that of the San Francisco Bay Area.

Kagawa-ken, the northeastern prefecture of Shikoku, is the island's smallest but mightiest. Shikoku's center of commerce, government, and transportation, Takamatsu is Kagawa's main port. Here, heavy industry lines the shore with an erector set of smokestacks and building cranes. But just ten minutes from Takamatsu Eki is Ritsurin Koen park, long admired as one of Japan's masterpieces of landscape gardening. To the northeast is Shikoku Mura, an open-air museum of residential homes, and the Yashima Plateau, which served as a great 12th-century battlefield. Sakaide, a onetime minor village just 20 km west of Takamatsu and formerly known for salt production, leapt into world prominence in April 1988 when it welcomed the first traffic across the Seto O-hashi bridge. Farther west along the Inland Sea is Tadotsu, a small port town home to Shorin-ji, a Zen temple famous for its martial arts tradition. Tadotsu also is the gateway to Zentsu-ji, the birthplace of the great saint Kobo Daishi who founded Zentsu-ji Temple, the headquarters of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism. Just south is Kotohira Jingu, one of the oldest and most revered Shinto shrines in the country. Kan-on-ji is at the western end of the prefecture and home to Kan-on-ji Temple, the 69th of the 88 Sacred Temples. Here too is Kotohiki Koen park, just a short stroll from the central eki. The park features the Zenigata, huge sand ditches resembling a 17th-century coin that is distinguishable only by peering down from a nearby hill.

Ehime-ken stretches almost 200 km west from Kawanoe along the Inland Sea to Yawatahama, where it bends southward for another 100 km. In Ehime-ken Prefecture are unvisited fishing villages, especially along the Uwa Sea. The secondary industry here is raising cultured pearls, and beautiful specimens are available from wholesalers at greatly reduced prices. The prefecture's central city is Matsuyama, crowned by a four-centuries-old castle and renowned for Dogo Onsen, where dignitaries, artists, and statesmen have come to soak and meditate for more than two millennia. Midway between Kawanoe and Matsuyama is Saijo, the gateway to Mount Ishizuchi, at 1,982 meters the tallest in western Japan. Hiking trails, open from June to November, lead to a small shrine that marks the summit. On the southern foot of Ishizuchi-san is Omogo Kei gorge, the largest in Shikoku. Yawatahama is a manufacturing town located at the base of Cape Sada pointing like a long bony finger toward Kyushu's Oita and Beppu. South is Uwajima, a quiet town filled with craftsmen and renowned for its bullfighting ring and the ancient and colorful Ushi-Oni Festival. In town is Uwajima-jo Castle, one of only 12 castles that have survived the ages intact, although some restoration has occurred.

Tokushima-ken, sandwiched between Kagawa and Kochi prefectures, occupies the island's east coast. Tokushima city, an old port town, is the commerce and communication hub of eastern Shikoku. North of Tokushima is Naruto, the terminus of the Naruto O-hashi bridge and the departure point for excursion boats to the wild Naruto Kaikyo straits. Between the two towns is Awa-Otani, a village centered around traditional pottery works. Pristine villages nestled along the south coast are famous for their fresh seafood. In Hiwasa, one of these is Ohama Beach, where giant sea turtles waddle ashore to lay their eggs in the warm sand. Nearby is Yakuo-ji Temple, the 23rd of the sacred 88 temples, purported to offer the best talisman for warding off evil spells. South of Hiwasa toward Kaifu, Tokushima's most southern village, are the Semba Sea Cliffs dramatically rising 200 meters above the pounding surf. A rail line leads inland to Anabuki, where the famous Dochu Earthen Pillars have been carved by millions of years of erosion. Farther west is Ikeda, the jumping-off point for Mount Tsurugi and environs, considered to be some of the last wilderness in Japan. Here you will find the natural wonders of Oboke and Koboke, two scenic rock formations along a magnificent gorge. Farther south is Iyadani Gorge cut by the Iya-gawa river through the bedrock of Mount Tsurugi. Plenty of hiking trails lead to the mountain's summit, which is crowned by a ski lift and a national lodging house.

Kochi-ken is Shikoku's entire southern underbelly facing the wide Pacific. The prefecture's central city is Kochi, with its alabaster castle sitting high on a hill. Just south of the city is Katsurahama Beach, a strand of pure white sand famous as an excellent vantage point for moon viewing. Twenty kilometers east of Kochi-ken is Ryugado, one of the three finest stalactite caves in Japan. The far eastern tip of land is Cape Muroto, where nature is schizophrenic. Here the climate is gentle, creating a hothouse where subtropical plants thrive, though the area is constantly dashed by the swirling tides and buffeting winds of typhoon gales. The far western section of the prefecture ends at Cape Ashizuri, where camellias and tropical plants grow with reckless abandon. Here the kuroshio (black current) pounds against 100-meter-tall sea cliffs, adding a dramatic punctuation point to Shikoku's southern tip.

The Land and Climate
Shikoku covers an area of 18,787 square km and is bordered by the Inland Sea on the north and the Pacific on the south. These bodies of water are connected by the Kii and Bungo Suido channels to the east and west respectively. The rugged Shikoku Mountains stretch across the center of the island from east to west and include the two tallest peaks of Ishizuchi Yama (1,982 meters) in Ehime and Tsurugi-san (1,955 meters) in Tokushima. Numerous unnavigable rivers tumble from the interior vastness to the sea, the longest being Yoshino-gawa at 194 km, which empties into the Kii Suido channel. A particularly beautiful river, well suited for camping and hiking, is the Iya Kawa near the town of Ikeda in Tokushima-ken Prefecture. The island has only a few small plains suitable for agriculture, the two most important being the Tokushima Heiya along the lower reaches of the Yoshino-gawa river and the Kochi Heiya, which borders the Pacific in the southwest. The coastline along the Inland Sea is punctuated with numerous harbors, capes, and promontories while the remainder of the shore is generally mountainous, with the exception of the relatively flat coasts of Naruto and Ashizuri.

History
In a small mound just east of Sukumo, a tiny city in southern Ehime, fragments of Yayoi pottery were unearthed that date back to the birth of Christ, and scholars have concluded that Shikoku was one of the earliest civilized areas of Japan. The island's main function throughout history was that of a cultural pathway, and from the times when the Yamato Japanese began their northeastward thrust led by the half-mystical emperor Jimmu Tenno, the bays of northern Shikoku provided natural stopovers.

During the Heian period the small islands throughout the Inland Sea were levied with extraordinarily heavy taxes, and many of their fishermen turned to piracy. To protect this vital watercourse, a type of seagoing samurai called a suigun emerged. Most suigun were under the control of the powerful local Ochi clan, who later changed their name to Kono when they were made official governors by Imperial decree. At the end of the Heian period, a ferocious battle between the Minamoto and Taira clans occurred on the Yashima Plateau just north of Takamatsu. In 1182 the Taira clan, led by Munemori Taira, fled Kyoto, taking the infant emperor Antoku with them. Relentlessly pursued by Yoshitsune, the Minamoto general, they engaged in a losing battle at Yashima and were forced to flee to Dannoura near Shimonoseki, where they were annihilated. The suigun sided with the Minamoto clan and were instrumental in the defeat of the Taira. The Kono clan was rewarded by the Minamoto and prospered at the beginning of the Kamakura Shogunate, which it helped to install, and the suigun became firmly established as the guardians of the Inland Sea.

Just prior to the Edo period, when Japan was mired in the chaos of civil war, Shikoku became an even more vital trade link between Japan and the Asian mainland. During this time, the great warlords, Nobunaga Oda followed by Hideyoshi Toyotomi, began their ascendancy and restricted the wearing of swords to the samurai class. This decree greatly diminished the authority of the suigun, most of whom were commoners, and greatly restricted their activities. With the emergence of the Tokugawa Shogunate, the suigun were completely retrenched, and today all that remains is a special form of drumming called suigun taiko, which can be heard at various island festivals. Shikoku, over the ages, had relatively few major political intrigues compared to its neighbors Honshu and Kyushu, but there were local skirmishes between the ruling warlords. Many cities, especially along the Inland Sea, began as castle towns, but Shikoku's primary claim to fame was that of a sacred island, whose ground was hallowed by its famous temples.

The Outlying Islands
Many discerning and experienced travelers consider the Inland Sea (Seto Naikai) to be among the most beautiful bodies of water in the world. Visually the most romantic area in Japan, this perfect archipelago is a harmonious blend of land and sea. At times Seto Naikai is a benign lake with land on every side. You can peer from the bow of your boat into tiny fishing villages huddled under black-tiled roofs and with their age-old fields of green terraced up steep mountain sides. Suddenly, a channel opens and your boat is plowing through whitecaps of open waters. Then more islands, some uninhabited and used only as farm fields. Always, on even the tiniest island, steps lead to a jinja, its red torii silhouetted against the blue sky.

The Inland Sea is the best place in Japan to let fancy be your guide. Numerous ferry services that range from hour-long hops between tiny islands to fantasy cruises aboard luxury liners crisscross these waters. If you want a city, disembark at Hiroshima, or head for the spas of Beppu. From Beppu, make a short hop to the western shore of Shikoku, spending time at one of the 88 temples on the famous pilgrimage route. Or, just cruise leisurely from Kobe to Shin-Moji, taking in the sights and resting. Everywhere are onward-going ferry connections. All the small cities have inexpensive minshuku, larger cities offer luxury hotels, and Yhs are dotted everywhere all along the shoreline.

Since ancient times, the Inland Sea has been a major link between Kyushu and the cultural centers of Kyoto and Tokyo to the north. Seafarers felt safe here, surrounded by Japan on all sides and protected from the unknown. Today, as in times past, art, culture, and learning flow freely on this waterway. The Inland Sea is tempting and perpetually lovely. Once visited, the magic that is Seto Naikai will linger in your memory like the blood-red sunsets for which it is famous.

The Sea
Seto Naikai is really a series of six small seas that include Harima, Bingo, Aki, Suo, Huichi, and Iyo. Including the Bay of Osaka, and connected by Kii Suido (Kii Channel) and Tomohashima Suido in the east, and the Bungo Suido and Hoyo Kaikyo (Hoyo Straits) in the west, the sea stretches for 500 km from Osaka to Shimonoseki. From north to south, distances vary considerably; the widest point is 65 km, and the narrowest a mere seven. Some channels passing between islands are only a few hundred meters wide. The Naruto Kaikyo in the east, which connects the Inland Sea to the Pacific, is just over one kilometer in width and is famous for its roaring whirlpools formed by the ebb and flow of the tide. The new and full moons whip the pools to their greatest fury, and boats can be hired to view this phenomenon at close quarters.

Between 700 and 3,000 separate land masses emerge from these waters. All, depending upon the definition, can be listed as islands. The largest is Awaji-shima (Awaji Island), which lies just off the coast from Kobe and measures 600 square km. The second largest is Shodo-shima, farther to the west and measuring about 155 square km. Most, however, are mere boulders that are separated from the coast by a few meters of water.

The sea's shoreline touches 11 prefectures on three of Japan's four main islands. Along the coasts can be found every conceivable geographic feature found in the country: beaches, bays, volcanoes, basins, plains, peninsulas, and capes. Because it is surrounded by land, Seto Naikai is usually as smooth as a temple pond and is relatively shallow, measuring an average depth of only 40 meters. With over 76 inhabited islands to choose from, it is difficult to single out particular ones. Most are unvisited fishing villages, quaint, traditional, and quiet. All are worth a stop.

The Climate
The Inland Sea region is sunny and clear year-round. It is even relatively protected during the typhoon season_whenever you choose to go is the right time. If you wish to escape the cold winter, disembark at Takamatsu and head for Kochi in south Shikoku. If you are sweltering in the summer heat, pick an island and sunbathe on one of the numerous balmy beaches.

Omi-shima
A small island between Mihara on Honshu and Imabari on Shikoku, Omi-shima is the home of Oyamazumi Jinja, dedicated to Oyamazumi-Okami, the elder brother of Amaterasu, traditionally known as the guardian deity of pirates. Because of the inherent daring needed to be a pirate, many Japanese daimyo came here to worship and pray for strength. They left their armor and swords as tribute. As a result, the island now houses almost 80% of the nation's treasures of ancient armor. The shrine is also surrounded by enormous camphor trees, some dating back thousands of years.

Ikuchi Jima
Twelve km off the coast from Mihara, this island boasts the unique Nishi Nikko Kosan-ji Temple. In 1946, a common sailor built this colorful temple in honor of his deceased mother. The buildings are painted in gold, red, green, purple, and yellow. They copy the Toshogu Jinja of Nikko, built in the 17th century. The grounds have numerous statues of Buddha, and there is a cave with representational paintings of heaven and hell.

Arts and Crafts
The heart and spirit of Shikoku are captured in its arts and crafts. Every prefecture has a specialty, with pottery common to all. Most of Shikoku's arts are created in small studios by dedicated artists using age-old methods. The following is a mere sampling of what you may encounter.

Kagawa-ken Prefecture is known for its production of lacquerware using the three main techniques of kinma, zonsei, and gotonuri. Articles range from small bowls to large dining tables. Paper products in the form of umbrellas and fix-ribbed paper fans are two more traditional crafts. The paper-fan industry is centered around Marugame city, and the yearly output of 50 million fans, all made by hand at home by the artisans, accounts for 90% of Japan's yearly output. Kagawa's waxed-paper umbrellas, handmade primarily in Takamatsu, have a distinctive indigo coloration. Mingei (folk art) is another specialty of Kagawa-ken and includes papier-mâché toys called hoko-san that can take the form of gaily painted tigers with bobbing heads or festival masks used in lion dances. Takamatsu is renowned for its production of geta, wooden clogs fashioned from local paulownia wood. The center of geta production is in the Shido-cho section of the city; cottage-industry artisans account for 60% of Japan's yearly production. One of the premier potters of Japan, Terushige Omori, resides in the village of Masahiwara near Zentsu-ji. His pottery is known as Nanzan. Omori-san has gained worldwide recognition for his fine artistry, especially in his use of glazes. His studio in Zentsu-ji is well-known and easily found.

Tokushima-ken Prefecture is well-known for its Otani-yaki, centered in and around Otani Mura village, not far from Naruto. What distinguishes these ceramics from other pottery is their massive size. These giants are used for raising water lilies and as garden pots. Some large bowls are over one meter in diameter and capable of holding 1,000 liters of water. The pots are thrown on a unique wheel called a nerokuro, operated by two potters, one who works the clay and another who lies on the floor and spins the wheel with his feet. Tokushima has long been regarded as one of the best producers of awa indigo, a traditional cloth of deep blue. The color cannot be achieved with chemical dyes, and the natural process gives it a distinctive scent and feel. At one time, thousands of artists were involved in its production, but today only a handful remain. Tokushima-ken is also known for its manufacture of bunraku puppets and deko dolls carved from paulownia wood and used in the Awa Puppet Ballad Dramas.

Paper making (washi) has been a tradition in Kochi-ken Prefecture for more than 1,000 years. Numerous small shops, most located in and around Kochi city, feature every facet of Japanese paper craft, from chochin (lanterns) to kami saifu (paper wallets). The raw material is pulp from Japanese mulberries cultivated in the nearby mountains. Two more famous paper products are tosa kites and banners. The kites are painted in bold colors that have symbolic meaning. Traditionally they were flown on New Year's Day and by fathers celebrating the birth of a son. Today considered folk art, they grace many living-room walls. Paper koi, usually flown in May to celebrate the birth of a son, represent heroes from times past, especially the baby warrior Kintaro. A specialty of the region is a daruma, known as okiagari, whose original design was borrowed from Tokyo in the early 1800s. This colorful "princess daruma" is sold as a charm for good health at numerous shrines. Part of this paper-making tradition led to the manufacture of omen (paper masks). The most famous are tosa (after the feudal name for Kochi), which are colorful and humorous and can be purchased almost anywhere.

The first coral in Japan was discovered off the shores of Kochi during the Edo period. During the Meiji period it was turned into a hairpin for the "ginko" hairstyle much favored by high-class geisha of the day. Today the three types of coral are classified by color as red, white, and pink. Carved into all manner of jewelry, they are not only sold in Kochi but are exported all over the world.

An excellent but little-known folk artist is Kono-san, a dollmaker who lives in Uwajima on the west coast of Ehime-ken Prefecture. Kono-san specializes in wooden toys, particularly ushioni, which have the heads of devils and the bodies of oxen. Another of Kono-san's specialties is a red fighting bull called a yokozuna, which was chosen by the Ministry of Industry as an official souvenir in Japan's Southeast Asian Floating Fair. He uses sakura (cherry wood) aged for 15 years to carve his folk toys. They make excellent gifts and are packed in special wooden boxes.

Ehime-ken has also produced Tobe-yaki in the city of Tobe for over 400 years. This pottery, with its distinctive blue-on-white motif, is used for everyday ware. Take-zaiku, bamboo products, have a history in and around Matsuyama city that goes back 1,400 years. At that time Shotoku Taishi, the regent of Japan, taught the people around Dogo Onsen to split bamboo and render it into all manner of utensils. Today, this bamboo ware is turned into the finest whisks used in chanoyu and into elegant baskets and vases. The mountain villages of Ehime produce Iyo Kasuri, an ikat cloth that was traditionally fashioned into work clothes for women. Now it is made into elegant kimonos and even Western-style clothing.