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Kyoto, with its hundreds of temples and gardens,
was the imperial capital between 794 and 1868, and it continues to
function as the major cultural centre of Japan. Although business and
industry are closing in on the traditional architecture, Kyoto still has
the raked pebble gardens, the sensuous contours of a temple roof, and the
latter-day geishas that western cliché-hunters long for. The Imperial
Palace is one of the few sights in central Kyoto. The present building
was constructed in 1855 and can only be visited as part of a tour.
The eastern part of Kyoto, notably the
Higashiyama district, merits top priority for a visit to its fine temples,
peaceful walks and traditional night entertainment in Gion. The Sanjusangen-do
Temple is a particular highlight. It houses 1001 statues of the
Thousand-Armed Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy). There are a number
of superb Zen temples in north-west Kyoto including Kinkaku-ji Temple,
which was burned to the ground by an obsessed monk in 1950, and later
rebuilt complete with gold-foil covering. The Takao District,
tucked away in the city's north-west, is famed for its autumn foliage. Himeji-jo
Castle, an easy day trip from Kyoto, is the most splendid Japanese
castle still standing. It's known as the 'White Egret', a title which
derives from the castle's stately white form.
There are hundreds of festivals in Kyoto during
the year, so booking accommodation well in advance is essential. The most
spectacular are Aoi Matsuri (15 May) which commemorates the 6th
century prayers of the people for the gods to stop calamitous weather; Gion
Matsuri (17 July), Japan's most renowned festival, which climaxes with
a massive parade; Damon-ji Gozan Okuribi (16 August) when enormous
fires are lit to bid farewell to the souls of ancestors; and Kurama-no-Himatsuri
(22 October) when portable shrines are paraded through the streets
accompanied by youths with flaming torches.
Most mid-priced
accommodation is to the north and north-west of the city, although there
are a couple of spiffy hostels to the east. Central Kyoto is excellent for
digging up reasonably priced Japanese and international food. Eastern
Kyoto is good for yakitori and western-style restaurants.
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