Macau (the other enclave south Hong Kong)

Macau is located 60 kilometres west of Hong Kong on the south eastern coast of China. It is a small territory of just over 21.09 square kilometres in size made up of a peninsula and the two islands of Taipa and Coloane.

The city of Macau is built on the peninsula and is joined to Taipa by two bridges. Taipa in turn is joined to Coloane by a 2.3 kilometre causeway.

At the extreme northern end of the peninsula, on a narrow isthmus, is the Portas do Cerco gateway, also called the Barrier Gate, which leads to the Zhuhai and Zhongshan provinces of China.

The city of Macau is the heart of the territory. The name of the city is derived from the name of a Chinese goddess popular with seafarers and fishermen, known as A-Ma or Ling Ma. The city's full name is 'City of the Name of God, Macau, There is None More Loyal' a name granted by the Portugese King back in the 17th century. The city has interesting museums and other special places to visit.

The village of Taipa contains several interesting old temples, shops and restaurants, while Coloane retains the peace and calm of a small fishing village. Interesting places to visit are a Chinese Temple, a chapel dedicated to St Francis Xavier and a library.

Close by are two beaches and the very old Hac Sa village where archaeologists have uncovered findings dating back some 3,000 years.

The people are Chinese and no different from those of Hong Kong. There is also a Portuguese minority. The current population is 455,000 residents comprising 95% Chinese and 5% Portuguese or others. The official languages are Chinese and Portuguese, but Cantonese is the most widely spoken.

History

A unique colony with a rich 400 year old heritage of co-existence between Portuguese and Chinese, Macau acquired official Chinese recognition under Portuguese rule on December 1, 1887. Up until then Portuguese galleons visited Macau from the 1500's and through the centuries the Portuguese enclave has been a principal meeting point for trade with China.

During the Opium wars between the Chinese and British, the Portuguese thought it diplomatic to remain aloof and subsequently Macau found itself the poor relation of Hong Kong. During World War 2, Macau remained neutral and in 1951 was proclaimed an overseas province of Portugal.

In 1986 Peking and Lisbon opened talks concerning the return of Macau to Chinese sovereignty. Its future is expected to be similar to that of Hong Kong which reverts to Chinese sovereignty in 1999, while still retaining a large degree of autonomy.

Sights

The most famous sight in Macau is the Ruins of St Paul, thought to have been designed by an Italian Jesuit in the early 17th century and built with the assistance of Japanese Christian artisans. The church and neighbouring college burnt down in 1835 leaving only the facade, the staircase and portions of the walls.

The Citadel of Sao Paulo do Monte was also built by Jesuits about the same time and a cannon ball was fired by the gun in the fort which saved the city from capture in 1622 when the Dutch attempted an invasion.

On Largo de Sto. Agostinho, opposite St. Augustine's Church, is the Dom Pedro V Theatre, a colonnaded building erected in the grand neo-classical manner. Its large entrance hall has an elegant chandelier and the theatre is oval in shape with plush velvet seats and touches of extravagance.

The Portas do Cerco (Barrier Gate) was built in 1870 and is inscribed with the arms of Portugal's navy and artillery. It opens daily from 7am to midnight so that tourists may visit areas of China.

The Guia Fortress and lighthouse was built in the 17th century and stands on the highest point of Macau, while the Pousada de Sao Tiago, a Portuguese inn, was constructed in the traditional style using internal hand crafted decorative features.

The fort on top of Mong Ha Hill overlooks the Chinese border and was built during the governorship of Ferreira do Amaral in 1849. It has one entrance gate and at the time was considered impregnable. Nowadays, the barracks have been converted into a small 24 room pousada (inn) to house government civil servants and official visitors.

Temples worth a visit are the Temple of Kun Iam built more than 600 years ago and where the first treaty of trade and friendship was signed in 1844 between China and the USA, the temple of A-Ma built by fishermen to the Goddess A-Ma and the Lin Fong Temple where visiting Chinese mandarins chose to stay when they visited Macau.

Churches include the famous Cathedral which was rebuilt in 1937 with its magnificent stained glass windows, the Sao Domingos Church built in the baroque style in the 17th century by Spanish Dominicans, the Sao Lourenco Church, first built of wood in the 1560s and replaced by taipa in 1618 and reconstructed in stone in the early 1800s.

Macau offers a wide range of accommodation from international five star hotels to Portuguese-style inns and budget guesthouses. Many have health centres and fine restaurants and some even have nightclubs, such as the famous Crazy Paris Show at the Lisboa Hotel which features European girls in a classy revue style show.

Except during major holidays, rooms are generally available with weekend rates 20% higher than on weekdays. Macau is usually cheaper than Hong Kong and this is evident when comparing the room rates at most hotels and at the pousadas (inns).

As Macau is fairly compact, it's easy to walk almost everywhere, however you'll need transport to visit Taipa and Coloane islands. Pedicabs are great for sightseeing, but bargain the cost before setting off. There are minibuses and large buses, both of which operate from 7am to midnight.

There are two types of taxis, black and yellow and both have meters, so make sure it is running when you begin your journey. If you choose to rent a car to explore Taipa and Coloane at your leisure, be aware of the traffic problems on Macau Peninsula and the lack of parking spaces.

When you want a change from Chinese food, you'll find most western food in Macau is cooked in simple Portuguese country style. Many dishes are stewed, including lobster which is surprisingly good prepared this way.

Macau's seafood is excellent and cheaper than in Hong Kong. There are also some specialities you may wish to sample such as African chicken, grilled and coated with a blend of spices, or preserved cod and fresh sardines, both imports from Portugal.

In the Macau tradition treat yourself to a long lazy Portuguese meal from a menu which will offer a choice of kid, lamb, mutton, chicken, crab, beef or fish with potatoes, tomatoes and tiny delicious black olives.

A convenient street market which has good cheap food is Rua da Escola Comercial, a tiny lane one block west of the Lisboa Hotel.

The locals love disco dancing and you can join them at the Mondial Disco, the Royal Disco, the Mikado or the Skylight Disco.

The most popular activity in Macau is gambling and even if you prefer to hold on to your money, it is fun wandering the casinos at night. There are three main places you can try your luck. The largest is the Lisboa Hotel with a special private room for high rollers.

At the other end of the street is the Macau Palace referred to as the 'Floating Casino' because it resembles a Mississippi steamer gone Oriental and is moored in the inner harbour.

There is also horse racing on Taipa island and greyhound dog racing at the Canidrome.

In the back streets of the town are antique shops selling historical curios from the colonial period, interesting chinaware and carved wood furniture that the local people use in their daily lives. Many of these objects retain the characteristics of the artistic tradition of old China.

As this is a gamblers paradise, pawnshops are good places to get great deals on cameras, watches and jewellery, but you must bargain for the right price.

Souvenir items include T-shirts, poster-size antique maps of Macau and sets of postcards, umbrellas and raincoats. Popular buys are gold jewellery, pottery, watches and knitwear all at duty free prices. Bargaining is standard on all these items.

Getting there and around

Macau International Airport opened in 1995 and operates 24 hours a day, even under difficult weather conditions. At the moment, 17 airlines fly to Macau, covering 25 cities, 11 of which are in China. Air Macau, the territory's airline flies to China, Taiwan and Thailand at this stage. The airport is linked to the Border Gate and to the jetfoil terminal by the second harbour bridge. Air Macau flies to China, Taiwan and Thailand at this stage. 

Visitors also arrive via sea from Hong Kong or by helicopter service. Boats servicing the 40 mile trip between Hong Kong and Macau are jetfoils, high speed ferries, jumbocats, turbocats, hover-ferries and catamarans. More than 100 crossings each way are made during the day and there are frequent night services. 

Facts for the Visitor

• Climate: The weather is sub-tropical, warm to hot from June to September, with high humidity from April to October, but cool sea breezes keep the hot months pleasant. Best months are November and December.
• Clothing: Lightweight clothes, except during the cooler months when jackets are needed.
• Electricity: 220 volts 50c/s in Macau and the outer islands.
• Time Zone: AEST less 2 hours; GMT plus 8 hours.
• Currency: The pataca is divided into 100 avos and is worth about 4% less than the Hong Kong dollar.
• Tipping: Upmarket hotels and restaurants automatically charge a 10% service fee. Tipping is not customary among the Chinese, but porters at deluxe hotels are accustomed to tips from tourists.
• Departure tax: The Hong Kong and Macau Governments charge a departure tax on tickets to and from Macau which is included in the ticket price.
• Visas & Health: Visas are not required for those who wish to stay less than 20 days.

• Medical Requirements: International inoculation certificates are not required unless cholera has been detected in Hong Kong or Macau or in an area recently visited before arrival.